Tourist in MSN

I only clicked on the first two links you posted, first was a 1971 Raleigh with 27 inch wheels. I worked in a Raleigh shop in 1973 (yes, I am that old) and I think buying a bike from that era with a plan to work up to PBP is a mistake. For one thing, that bike was listed as having 27 inch wheels, they were common in the 70s but are now quite rare. Maybe those wheels were stock in 1971 or maybe not, but the 1973 International had tubular tires, not 27 inch clinchers. I think you want 700c wheels.

The second link you posted is listed as a Raleigh, I think it is not. I do not recall any Raleighs from that era having pump pegs above the downtube on a derailleur bike and all Raleighs of that era had a head badge riveted to the head tube. And if it is a Raleigh bike, if it is a Nottingham bike then it would have an odd thread for the bottom bracket that was unique to that factory. In that era, the better Raleighs were made in the Carlton factory, the lower end ones in Nottingham, the Carlton bikes should have better frames with more common threads.

If you really want a vintage Raleigh, you should look for a Carlton bike with 531 Reynolds tubing. Early 70s were probably all 120mm rear dropout spacing, I am not sure when they would have switched to 126mm, probably late 70s? You could easily run a modern 130mm hub in a frame with 126mm spacing. Others would know more about cold setting than me, I can't comment on cold setting a Reynolds frame.

Modern drive trains are so much better than drive trains of that era. While some people enjoy riding vintage bikes with vintage drive trains, I think you will find that indexed gearing with more and wider gears are what you really want.

I am not going to recommend a particular model, most of my bikes I built up from the frame, thus I really do not know what complete bikes out there would be a good off the shelf rando bike.

Good luck.