Originally Posted by
RChung
That's a 7% difference in rpm. If you're really on the knife edge, decrease your power by 7%
Just to reiterate what HT said (but in a different way), you can do that effectively on the flats. Drop your power output, slow down, the opposing force is reduced, and you can actually use a reduced pedal force (same gearing).
But going up a hill you are (for all practical purposes) just fighting gravity. So to go up a hill (at a given gearing) at any speed, you need the same force applied to the pedals. It is the same force that would be required to keep you motionless (ignoring friction and aerodynamics). More power means more speed, but it is all in the 'v' part of P =F*V. And, I speculate, it is the F part that is the issue that I am analyzing (and at some point it is an issue for any mortal biker).
Regarding the 'just get higher gears and a longer cage RD and be done with it', that is the question on the table. But all of this is about a single ride (Six Gap Century) and those extra gears are worthless to me where I normally ride so would actually be a detriment, taking away gears that would be useful to me. Since I seem to be on the edge of needing these gears, I am proceeding with caution. 34F/30 rear is what is my default without other changes.
dave
ps. In this 'analysis' I am assuming no out of the saddle stuff (and I don't find out of the saddle a particular issue). I am just holding that in reserve.