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Old 09-22-15, 09:54 PM
  #123  
Jax Rhapsody
Rhapsodic Laviathan
 
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 1,003

Bikes: Rideable; 83 Schwinn High Sierra. Two cruiser, bmx bike, one other mtb, three road frames, one citybike.

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Originally Posted by DavoColo
Okay, this thread is (maybe not quite as) relevant as ever. But I just picked up a Surly Cross Check -- a frame around when this thread started and still around today -- and came here for an answer to a variation on our now age-old question: If I switch from drop bars to flat bars, keeping stock brakes, what levers do I use?

My next question would be: Why do the stock Tektro Oryx brakes provide so little stopping power? I bought the bike -- a 2010 -- just slightly used. But the breaks seriously have little to no power. Would an adjustment and new brake shoes give me something worth bothering with? Since I rarely if ever ride in mud here in the semi-desert part of Colorado, my inclination is to give up on cantilevers entirely and go with TRP CX9 short-arm linear-pull cyclocross brakes. A little less clearance, a lot more stopping power, I hear. If I did that, what flat-bar levers would I use?

Those are general questions. Does anyone have specific, state-of-the-art but not-freakishly-expensive, recommendations for specific flat-bar brake-lever models to go with the Oryx cantis or the CX9 linear-pulls?

Thanks for the opportunity to participate in the World's Oldest Thread.
Tektro Oryx have a beyond 90° angle in them, which is why they suck. Cantis with more than 90° angle don't have much mecanical leverage nomatter how you adjust them, or use v-brake levers. None of the 180° designs I've ever worked with ever stopped too much better than old mtb style stampsteel side pulls.

Yep I jumped off the bridge with the rest of you.
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