Originally Posted by
Thigh Master
Correct, no couplers, very observant. I have heard that the 26 inch advantage is strength and maneuverability as well as lots of parts in the third world if the rim/tire has issues. I like the idea of a larger diameter wheel/tire for comfort and handling on paved and dirt roads. I’m not a technical trail guy.
Decades ago it was widely said that if you were in some obscure place in South America, that it was easier to find a 26 inch tire. But, I have not been there and have no plans to do so. And I am not hearing that story any more.
The difference between 700c and 650b in actual size is so small, that I do not see much advantage or disadvantage from one to the other when it comes to wheel strength, quickness of handling, weight, or the inertia to accelerate. As I noted, toe overlap might be an issue with 650b or it might not be. And for a small rider, there is a reason to go with a smaller wheel.
I built up my last 26 inch touring bike in 2013, which was near the end of when 26 inch wheel touring bikes made sense. I considered a Co Motion Pangea with S&S couplers at that time, but in the end bought a Thorn Nomad Mk II frame and fork (with couplers) instead, largely based on price. I had to pay over $100 USD in customs fees for the Thorn when it was delivered, but it was still a lot cheaper than the Pangea. And I am happy with my purchase. That said, I am sure I would have been happy with the Pangea too. But I would not be building up a new 26 inch wheel bike now due to the lack of tire choices.
I think you have it figured out.
A side note. Make sure you get the exact gear range you want for gearing. If your gearing is higher or lower than you find to be ideal, it will be costly to get a different sprocket, belt and possibly chainring.