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Old 09-17-17, 03:05 AM
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LaughingBasher
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Originally Posted by Myosmith
Please provide more information:
Originally Posted by Myosmith
  • Type of riding you do: commuting, paved trails, off road, gravel, road, etc. For now paved trails to lose weight.
  • Make and model or at least the type of bike: road, touring, gravel/adventure, hybrid, MTB. MTB w/ DH wheelset 36H
  • Size of tires and pressures you run. 27.5"x1.5/85PSI
In general, you'll want features such as 36 butted spokes (don't let anyone tell you straight gauge are stronger), double wall rim, eyelets (single or double), fairly wide rim (increases internal volume of any given tire). You'll also want to pick tires that have a fairly large volume such as; 28mm for a road bike, 32-35mm for a touring, hybrid or gravel bike. Higher tire volumes provided added protection to your wheelset.



As important as the components of the wheelset is the build. Your wheels should be 36-spoke, 4-cross, with adequate and relatively even tension and in both radial and lateral true. Avoid wheel damaging activities such as curb jumping, drops, potholes, or ramming your way over obstacles.


Noted, thanks for the tips.

Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
Exactly how many spokes do you have? Currently 36H
You can prolong the life o your current wheels by having the spokes PROPERLY & EVENLY tensioned.
That may result in a better wheel than a CHEAP wheel set.
IF you need a new wheel, likely it would just be the rear. In that case, look for an offset spoke bed (OC) rim. It results in a more symmetrical (thus stronger) wheel.

Tire sidewall cracking is a different issue than wheel "strength".
Straight gauge spokes ARE stronger, but butted spokes result in longer wheel life.
Noted, i felt that it's because of my weight i stretch the rubber rapidly when i steer, the cracks are all located near the rim.
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