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Old 08-06-19, 08:26 AM
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cyccommute 
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Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, an orange one and a few titanium ones

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Just to be clear, I am trying to be helpful so if I come across as combative, that is not my intent.

None of what you are doing should require a shop to do. It's all stuff that is simple to fix at home.

Originally Posted by wrldtraveller View Post
Cycco, why tuneup? well my rear tire is soon bald. I would assume its because the rubber used is soft as my bike is designed to be used on gravel, and has aggressive treads.
Tires are something that wear out but if you put new rubber on the bike when you started, you shouldn't have worn them out in 1300 miles. You might want to do a little research for tires that wear better before you replace the ones you have with the same brand and model. Even knobbed tires last longer than 1300 miles.

Also, putting a tire on a bike is something that every cyclist should know how to do. If you can fix a flat, you can change a tire. You just have to take the tire off both the wheel entirely instead of only one side. By all means buy the tire from your local shop but you don't need to wait the typical 2 weeks that bike shops are taking for repairs to be back out on the road.

Originally Posted by wrldtraveller View Post
my brake pads are nearly gone, as I constantly had to brake in order to maintain my speed with my friends. I tend to pedal faster and heavier. Eventually my friends did allow me to take the lead and I left them far behind. So I preferred to keep with my friends as my friends has all the maps, and know how (rookie here...).
I ride with slower people all the time but I don't ride my brakes. Brake pads typically last me several thousand miles and, usually, several years. When I do change a pad, I seldom remember how long it has been. It is a skill to ride with slower riders but if they are dragging brakes on downhills, meet them at the bottom.

Originally Posted by wrldtraveller View Post
I am very familiar with how bikes works, but from what I can see, Im not happy with the tire as they did not provide protection from general rough roads. I got tube puncture just by rolling into a gravel turnoff, and got a pinch puncture because the downhill had a rough patch of pavement.
Pinch flats are an indicator that you are running the tire pressure too low. I'm a big guy. I'm an aggressive rider who doesn't shy away from bombing single track. I seldom get pinch flats because I keep my tires inflated. Don't try to make your tires do the cushioning when you ride in rough terrain. Either use suspension on the bike or use the shock absorbers you have at your ready 24 hours a day...your arms and legs. Even with suspension, your arms and legs are going to do most of the work absorbing impacts.

Another point on pinch flats (or riding with low pressure tubeless), they are indicative of your rim impacting whatever hole or rock that you are hitting. If your rim is hitting that hole or rock, you risk damaging the rim. Is a little bit of comfort worth the $100 or more repair to the wheel? Pump the tires up!

Originally Posted by wrldtraveller View Post
And closer inspection shows that the tire has so many tiny gash and cuts. so I decided to replace the tire and tube for a more stronger and durable. based on recommendation from my friend, its Schwalbe Marathon, that I am turing to.
Replace the tire, sure. But tubes can outlast hundreds of tires. I regularly see tubes at my local co-op that are inside 40 year old rotten tires that are still usable. I patch tubes until the point of ridicule...my wife made me throw away one with 35 patches on it. She was probably correct because at that point there was more patch then tube but I could have done more. Tubes are also just tubes. If you spend more, you probably won't get any better quality and you certainly won't get better protection against flats of any kind.

Originally Posted by wrldtraveller View Post
I did avoid to use brake during heavy and very fast downhill and am aware of using brakes when going at 50 mph, it will burn up and damage my whole brake calibers, so I just let go, and have fun. and allow the bike to slow down by itself. except for one area, I had to keep using the brake as the road was crazy twisty, and I knew I cannot just let go, so I braked constantly (I tend to switch rear-front, to allow time for them to cool off to avoid overheating)
No, your brakes won't burn up at over 50mph. Nor will it damage your calipers. I've been to that point many times with many different brakes. The calipers are far from delicate.

I would also suggest a different braking approach then to switch from front to rear and back. Pulse brake, instead. To pulse brake, use both brakes but use them in pulses. Hit the brakes hard, scrub speed, then get off the brakes, and repeat as needed. The time in between pulses can vary but, for the most part, you won't overheat as much as constantly dragging one or the other brake and you'll have more control of your speed.

Pulse braking works for cantilevers, sidepulls, discs and spoonbrakes (I think but I'd never use a spoonbrake). I use it all the time and that's how I can get years of use out of a brake.

Finally, as with tires, replacing brake pads is relatively simple. Rim brakes can be a little complicated but if you have disc pads, those are dead simple. Just pull them out and push in new pads.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
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