Originally Posted by
adipe
a larger tire has a bit of an impact regarding handling. you might be glad you did choose a larger tire on the front as well for the main reason that your current stem does not need to be changed for a longer one, neither is your frame too long now in effect. all this because you have now a larger trail comparing what you had before.
a very small difference can have a serious even if not understood effect that adds up to the gyro one that helps keep your front wheel stable at high speeds, not only improving bump absorption.
your MTB commuter i suspect has a short fork after it once was having a longer one and therefore has now a still small-ish trail with 1.5" tires, larger than normal road bikes chainstay length and still a just a bit high bottom bracket for all that.
either you changed the suspension fork for a shorter rigid one or someone else did before getting the bike. no importance now. what is important is that you have the bike and it works.
maybe you will find interest regarding frame and fork geometry.
a very small trail is not alright, even with a longer stem for such a bike - 420mm chainstay and a bit high bottom bracket as a typical MTB has. short trails are for road bikes with competition like geometry: 73 degrees fork angle, 44-45mm offset, designed for being as aero as possible, not much regard for comfort.
google this... perhaps:
fork angle, fork offset, trail.
i might suggest a cyclocross bike with about the same geometry you have now only for a lower q factor. riser bars is what i prefer and bar ends mounted on the inner portion, as to be used with a closed up space between the arms.
this setup you have right now would not handle well with riser bars because you need a larger distance from the fork tube (stem + bars) for the still quite short fork that i guess you have now.
cyclocross bikes have about 71 degrees head angle, 44mm for offset (rake), 275mm bottom bracket height.
it is not my intention of making you feel that you still don't have the dream bike or something like that, i am just trying to help you see the differences in geometry in case you would be interested about this stuff.
I have a lot of bikes...far too many bikes...including a rather nice cross bike (used as a fat tire roadie, and with lower than typical BB) and an "adventure" bike that is a relatively similar build. Also quite a few sports tourer'ish builds that make for nice commuters as well. I especially like the drop bar MTB because it blends in at a bike rack, I have it outfitted with racks, and I don't need to worry about paint chips (or rust). The frame is pretty much indestructible...and has already survived one incident with an SUV.
As far as the fork, it was almost certainly a suspension fork when originally built, and I swapped it for a tange rigid. As I'm sure you're aware, handling issues are often endemic to alternate use of a build, but it's a fun bike; for stem I went short and high, with dirt drops. It was pretty much necessary to use a shorter stem in order to get a reasonably comfortable cockpit, but there are handling compromises.
