Originally Posted by
2cam16
It all depends on what kind of riding you'll be doing. If you'll be riding a lot of technical downhill portions or even fast downhills, then yes on the dropper. Easier to shift your butt over the rear wheel. PNW makes some inexpensive ones. I have a TranzX on my 2001 Stumpjumper and love it.
PNW and TranzX are in my price range. I'm not going to do any super technical stuff. I broke my back 9 years ago so no big air or high speeds on down hills. I also have a hard brace fr my left ankle that really limits the out of the saddle time. So being able to get it down for trails and up for bike path riding, would be good.
Originally Posted by
Darth Lefty
Droppers get the seat out of the way when you want to move around standing on the pedals.
You should do 1x and the dropper at the same time. The lever takes the place of your front derailleur pull lever, and the cable routing goes about the same way (assuming bottom pull derailleur). You will need an external routed dropper. Most of them now are internal or “stealth”
How much travel you can use depends on your fit. You can get an overall max length for you, and compare it to what’s published for your post. It might be blocked from full depth by a bottle boss especially on a medium frame.
https://pnwcomponents.zendesk.com/hc...me-and-height-
Your bike has kind of a mast at the seat tube and not much post showing so I’m guessing you will be doing 125 mm or 100. It’s possible to cut the mast down if you are ambitious.
Nearly all droppers are zero setback so consider that for the fit.
I have the seat lowered for riding in the dirt, riding on pavement, I have the seat nearly 2" higher. So a quick release post clamp is still needed, though with the dropper post, the existing clamp is fine. External is good, watched a few videos, I can live with that.
Basically, wanting to keep this bike on the trail another year or two. At least. I know it's not a serious name brand gonzo machine, but that isn't what I want or need. SO it is tough to justify the expense of a new "REAL" MTB... And besides, my next bike is more than likely going to be fat bike.
I can see having the 1x and dropper done at the same time is a good idea. I haven't decided yet on how many teeth chain ring to get. But understand the narrow/wide concept.
Originally Posted by
cxwrench
As posted in #4 you have your seat so low that you'd probably never find a dropper that would work. 50mm of drop is useless anyway.
I mentioned above, for trails, I have the seat lowered in the pic. I usually have it 2" higher for more paved riding.
Originally Posted by
prj71
Dropper posts are used for downhill riding. Given the geometry of that bike and the handlebars...I wouldn't be riding that thing down hill.
Get yourself a real mountain bike.
Ah, the proverbial "REAL" MTB... I broke my back 9 years ago in a cycling crash, so no gonzo riding for this old man. This machine is just fine for my needs. And as I mentioned above, my next bike is more than likely going to be a fat bike. I dare say this bike is every bit as real as my old 1990 Trek 7000, or my 1989 Trek 950. Or my 91 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo. On the other hand, I am keeping my eye out all the same for a killer deal, just in case...
I also have a nice Cannondale CAAD8 for speed, a couple older Cannondale road bikes (97 and 98 R series bikes) and my first real road bike, an old 1986 KHS... Just no budget for a new bike right now.