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Old 02-22-17, 02:24 PM
  #35  
Tim_Iowa
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,643

Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)

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Originally Posted by af2nr
I have liked mine so far, however, after mounting them on a new set of rims I noticed an "imperfection" on one of the tires in the pattern. It has a very obvious deviation to the pattern, almost appeared the wheel was severely out of true, possibly wouldn't have noticed but I was spinning the wheel in my hand to spread the sealant.
Originally Posted by chas58
Yeah I had that problem a lot when I first had tubless tires/rims. I didnt' realize it at first, but the bead was not seating evenly against the rim. It can be a nightmare to get right, until I read of a simple trick:

Put soapy water along the tire bead, this allows it to slip into place without getting hung up.
I agree, 9 out of 10 tire "imperfections" are due to bead seating issues, not tire casing issues. The bead gets caught inboard of the bead shelf, and the tread is pulled down.

It can happen with tubeless rims and tires, or with standard rims and tires.

Lubricating the bead when mounting helps a lot. I use laundry soap, because the laundry is close to my bench. I just dip my finger in the half-filled cap and drag it across the bead.

It also helps to check the bead when the tire pressure is still low, like 15-20 psi. At that pressure, you should be able to massage the tire bead up into its channel with your thumbs.
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