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Old 04-13-20, 01:35 AM
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Bikes: Cheltenham-Pederson racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

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I mostly eschew use of a Dremel for jobs where simpler tools like cable/housing cutters, saws and files are quicker and need no expensive consumable bits.
In this regard I especially avoid getting Dremel grinding dust anywhere near open ends of my new cable housing's perfectly clean liners.

But there are exceptions that arise, such as the cut-off wheel that allowed me to cut a certain car repair job's (Town Car power windows) labor hours in half.
I was able to just enter access ports in the door panels with the Dremel and shorten some M6 threaded studs, which meant not having to remove the window glass while replacing the window regulators. The fragile cut-off wheels were the unlikely best tool for the job. Also good for slotting a stripped screw head if you can access it.

Mostly I use the stone wheels, 1/8" wide and about an inch in diameter, part number 8215. This wheel cuts things like steel sprocket teeth tips, beveling for enhanced shifting or cutting the sharp corner off the driven side of a well-used freewheel's teeth allowing use of brand-new chain without skipping. Better yet it allows doing this without even removing the rear wheel from the bike, as long as the diameter of the wheel is worn down to a slightly smaller diameter that is.
The 8215 stone wheel is the one tool that I usually leave in my Moto Tool's collet.

The same stone wheel is also good for massaging any areas of chain interference such as protruding axle-locating hardware or claw-hanger retaining nuts and bolts, the better to be able to shorten the axle's drive-side overhang for a stronger axle and a stronger wheel.
And when I've needed to remove a chain connecting link having one of those Shimano special pins, this stone wheel also makes short work of taking the end of the pin completely off below the surface of the sideplate (the whole link gets discarded).

Where shaping of aluminum is needed, such as increasing the adjustment range of a Suntour rear derailer's B-tension lug, I use a 1/4" oblong or 1/8" cylindrical carbide cutter bit that gets into tight radius spaces and won't clog with soft metal like a stone always will. This also works great for re-shaping a modern aluminum derailer hanger bracket for use on another modern frame that it wasn't intended for, (assuming you can find an appropriate candidate for surgery).

But there's so many jobs where simpler files and saws or a bench grinder are better and safer, sometimes faster and usually less expensive than the Dremel.
I've seen a literal shower of needle-sharp steel shards produced by a Dremel carbide bit's cutting edges, any one or one hundred of which could end up in someone's skin or in their eye.
And I had my baby finger sliced by a Dremel steel cutoff wheel that grabbed the piece of plastic I was cutting (which I still remember from 32 years ago).
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