Old 02-20-19, 04:58 PM
  #4  
alias5000
Raised a new winter bike
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Ontario
Posts: 464

Bikes: HP Velotechnik Streetmachine GTE, 2015 Devinci Silverstone SL4, 2012 Cannondale Road Tandem 2, 2007 Trek 6000, Circe Morpheus

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Some strategies you could consider:
  • Use a hand-pump garden sprayer to hose down your bike with warm water (store inside afterwards). $20 at your hardware store
  • Replace all bolts with stainless steel bolts. Grease threads. Only use stainless steel cables.
  • Consider a more rust resistant chain
  • Protect inside of steel frame against rust (Frame saver, Boeshield T-9, boiled linseed oil)
  • Regularly keep your drive train free of gunk and sand
  • Touch up on all scratches and paint chips on your steel frame BEFORE rust starts
  • Aim to replace as many plain steel parts with stainless steel or aluminum versions as reasonable.
  • You can use something like thick grease or Vaseline to cover up moving plain steel parts, such as derailleur joints, etc (not chain!). Needs cleaning and replenishing once a season
  • Use nosed housing ends and other covers to reduce water ingress into cable housing (esp. those that are pointing upwards and where water can collect in a housing)
  • Full-coverage fenders with long mudflaps
Edit: in agreement with Jim (below): the best bikes go in winter storage inside. With good care (and using some of the tips above) you can ride a nice bike through winter and not wreck it completely. But wear and tear is higher in winter, so you are going to replace components a little earlier. I wouldn't want to see this with my $400 tandem bike hubs. With my standard disc hubs of my decent-quality hardtail MTB (winter commuter), no problem!
If you don't want the additional maintenance and care, beaters are your best bet.

Last edited by alias5000; 02-20-19 at 09:09 PM.
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