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markk900 - yes I am very satisfied with my first wheel and I learned a lot. I just looked at the rear wheel with 40 spokes & think I now know why, visually, looks so busy. It's a 3 cross on the dynohub (left) side and a 4 cross on the cog side. That's a lot of crossing. When I build a new one I will ask my wheel builder what I should do. I don't think it needs that many crosses.
I ordered pawl springs and an axle key from Harris, which I received today. Took the whole internals apart, however since I didn't want to remove the dyno I left the axle in the hub with left side clamped down. I had to removed everything from the hub shell via the right side (facing up). Replaced the springs and the pawls pop out with vigor! Putting it all together was interesting. Last time I had the axle alone in the vise, and simply sat all the pieces on each other one by one. Once it was all aligned and together I slide it as a unit into the hub. This time the axle was in the center of the hub shell and I had to gingerly lower each sub assembly in carefully one at a time. This made it a little challenging for things to line up and settle quickly. So that's done. I don't ever want to disassemble that thing again....at least for a very long time.
Installed one of those clear/white rubber "protection caps" on the end of the right axle where the indicator chain comes out. Guess it's supposed to keep your clothes from getting greasy if you brush up against it since it sticks out so far.
So, Sheldon Brown, as well as Sturmey Archer highly emphasize that before you remove the ball ring (from a SA IG hub) you mark the bike AND the ball ring, because there are 2 notches at 180 degrees from each other. There is a
double thread to get the ball ring started so it's important to start it in the correct position. Well.....the first time I disassembled the hub I
did mark the bike, but did
not mark the ball ring. Neither Sheldon, nor Sturmey Archer go into much detail about what happens if you should accidentally start the ball ring at 180 degree starting point when threading. Well, I found out. I had trued the rear wheel prior to hub work and noticed, after reassembling the hub, that my wheel was miraculously "out of true". I fixed it but could not understand what I had done to make this suddenly happen. After all, I did mark the frame for where the ball ring notch was supposed to start. I figured it out yesterday, that I must have started threading the ball ring at the opposite notch. According to further research, this somehow due to threading, would cause the wheel to be "wobbly". Also wondered if it was contributing to the less than perfect shifting my hub experienced after the first rebuild. I rectified the situation tonight (don't know that I needed to but figured I'd put it back to original position), and of course had to re-true the wheel.
So, before removing the ball ring mark the bike AND the indentation and make sure to align them upon reassembly.
Also, my new front wheel with the CR18 rim looks like mag wheels on a Pinto!