Old 05-30-20, 09:24 AM
  #18  
Russ Roth
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
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Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem

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Originally Posted by Rogerogeroge
??? That is not why you stress-relieve a wheel. You stress-relieve to remove the false tension where the spoke has turned when the nipple has turned. You don't squeeze them to find the spokes that are 'about to break'.
You are correct-ish, when building/rebuilding a wheel that is the purpose but on an old wheel where one spoke is replaced there isn't a need to do that, the thousands of miles have done the job and you should know if the few spokes you tweaked to true a wheel are right, I find just setting the wheel upright on the ground and pushing down on the top and going around the wheel that way will do the job on a more difficult true. On a questionable wheel going around the rim and squeezing the spokes in pairs after a spoke relacemet can also serve the function of finding out if spokes are bad. I've a number of times replaced a spoke and squeezed and behold, another broken spoke, then I tell the customer its time for a rebuild and don't bother going further.

To the OP, the two spokes you circled are absolutely going to break and will any that have any kind of jagged cut to them. If you undo a spoke, replace and tension till the wheel is true then do the next you won't need to rebuild the wheel, doing even 7 spokes this way will be faster then replacing all at once. Though if you remove all the outside spokes first, put new ones in, thread the nipple to the same point on all of them and then start turning them 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8 turns in order till you have the wheel properly dished the job would be fairly easy as well and a good mechanic should be able to do that. The key with the first is always unwind the spokes and with the second method for all the outer spokes you do each of the 8 spokes in half turns going around till they're fully detensioned, this assures that you don't put undo stress on the other spokes and will keep the rest of the spokes correct.
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