Breako21

I use 2 Hazet click style torque wrenches on my bike for everything up to 20nm. Accurate to within 3%, and more than accurate enough for ANY bicycle part, including parts that involve carbon fiber. For the bottom bracket, cassette, etc... I use an older model Park Tool TW-2 beam style torque wrench. Very easy to recalibrate by hand on the rare occasions it needs adjustment, and a perfectly suitable tool for those bicycle jobs.

Snap-On tools are not needed for any bicycle application. Not even by a pro race mechanic. Go check any of the actual tool boxes of 4+ dozen random world class bike mechs, who wrench for world class DH or XC MTB racers, and I’ll guarantee you that you will not find Snap-On or MAC tools nor Precision Instruments torque wrenches in even 5% of those Tool boxes.

Your rant sounds like you’re an angry Snap-on wholesaler or something? And if you think bike shops charge labor rates that approach a quality Porsche work shop rate you have obviously never owned a Porsche. I’ve owned multiple 911 Turbos, and I can assure you the shop labor costs of maintaining such a machine dwarf what any bicycle shop charges for labor.

Now I do agree with you that the Park Tool TW 5.2 and 6.2 are silly priced given that they are essentially nothing but rebadged cheap generic Amazon-Neiko type $30 torque wrenches. Anyone that paid over $100 for either of them got hosed. That said, one does not need a $500 torque wrench to successfully wrench on bicycles. My Hazet click style torque wrenches were bought on sale for between $110 to $150 each (models 5107-2CT, 5108-2CT, and a 5110-2CT). I always reset them to 0 after each use, and get them recalibrated every 2 years. I use them mainly on my cars, which was the primary reason I bought them. The only ones that get used on my bicycles are the 5107 and 5108. I would dare anyone to claim or try to prove they are inadequate for bicycle maintenance because they are click style torque wrenches given they are the exact same model torque wrenches we regularly used on the Porsche F1 development team for numerous applications when I worked for them. There is nothing wrong with a click style TW for bicycle use so long as you ALWAYS reset it to 0 after EVERY use, have it properly calibrated, buy a decent quality wrench, and get it recalibrated every few years or after an abusive type incident like dropping it. FYI,?you don’t need to be at 1% or even 2% torque accuracy for any bicycle components. That’s nonsense! These are not NASA space shuttles being worked on, they are bicycles. In addition, bicycle CF component makers have torque specs that are so conservative that any decently calibrated and decent quality TW will get you where you need to be safely.