Originally Posted by
insignia100
I'm now paranoid of the wheels that came on my new-to-me bike: 16 spoke front, 24 spoke rear. I'm more concerned about the front, if only because I may get stranded if a front spoke pops. I could probably make it home if a rear spoke broke while out on a ride. (For reference, I'm 244ish lbs at the moment, though slowly but surely dropping weight.)
I'd like to upgrade the front wheel at least to a 20-24 spoke rim. I've been browsing Wheelbuilder.com and am considering a front wheel using the DT Swiss R 460 rim and a White Industries T11 front hub.
Is there anything else I should consider? I may eventually upgrade the rear wheel, but for the present I'm more concerned with being able to get home if a spoke pops, not necessarily performance.
Having formally weighted as little as you and having been through many wheel sets, I offer my humble opinion(s).
Your concerned regarding your 16/24 wheels may be justified and replacing them with something more durable is probably justifiable. If you're riding for health, fitness and weight loss, then, you aren't racing and reduced spoke counts serve no purpose.
My take on things is: For health, fitness, weight loss and training purposes, the most important trait of my wheels is their long term durability and long intervals between service.
The DT R460 you mention will build up into a fine wheelset. As would a DT R511 or Velocity Deep V or HED Belgium C2.
More important to wheel longevity and durability is the combination of spoke count, spoke diameter and most importantly tension balancing of the spokes.
Since these aren't race wheels, there's no decernable advantage or reason to reduce the count from the 32 that all the above are available in. There also would be any reason why you couldn't get perfect service from a 28 front in combination with a 32 rear. So, at least from my perspective, I would look at a 32/32 or 28/32 set.
For spoke selection, the choices are pretty simple. The most basic being between straight gauge and double butted. Many of us who build our own clyde worthy wheels, and several shops that sell a lot of clyde wheels (such as Leonard Zinn) will concur that double butted spokes provide for a superior wheel and cost hardly anything. So, I would go, and have gone repeatedly, with DT Comp spokes, with brass nipples.
The most important and most often overlooked aspect of clyde wheel durability is spoke tension balancing. It is, by far, the most important aspect. And, requires either an initial builder with both the patience to do so and the equipment to laterally load the rim and hubs, or, that you have a suitably skilled wheelsmith to do the tension balancing after a very short breakin. I can not tell you how many bicycle technicians have claimed to me to be able to properly maintain wheels, but, fail in this regard. Being willing to visit numerous shops to find your wheelsmith or invest in the tools yourself and start practicing (if you're mechanically inclined).
Hubs: There are plenty of options, but, to be honest, simple 32 hole Shimano Ultegras or 105s provide everything I need for good training wheels, and, they're quiet. If I were to shop up scale from there, I would look for sealed bearings and perhaps a star drive type ratchet, but, most certainly still a steel freehub body.
That's my take on simple clyde training wheels.