Originally Posted by
Wilfred Laurier
The tires will not 'pop' because you are a big person, if that is your concern. However, you do need to be proactive about keeping the tires inflated nice and firm - probably over 100psi for 25mm tires. Riding with underinflated tires (the definition of 'underinflated' depends on the rider weight, road conditions, riding style, etc) is very likely to result in 'pinch flats' (tire and tube getting pinched between the ground and the rim, damaging the inner tube) or damaging the rim.
If you can fit 32mm tires then do so - you can probably run them around ~80-90psi, they will roll lightning fast and give good comfort, traction, and rim protection.
The cost of a decent tire starts around ~$30 each. More expensive tires can either be faster rolling and lighter, or more resistant to damage and punctures and a bit slower. If you were strapped for cash there are also perfectly good tires for $20 or less each. My absolute favourite tires are Panaracer Pasela - available in lightweight and supple fast rolling, and slightly less fast puncture resistant versions. The fast ones are usually sold for about $25 each and they come in many many sizes!
The great thing about tires is that they wear out if you ride a lot, so you can reward yourself for riding a lot by buying new tires!
While I'm glad you mentioned rim damage as a result of low pressure, I wish more people would concentrate on that then "pinch flats". Pinch flats are inconvenient but can be fixed cheaply. Rim damage is ranging towards a catastrophe. The current fad of riding on flat tires...aka lowest possible pressure...makes rim damage far more likely.
Originally Posted by
Wilfred Laurier
A catastrophic failure is very unlikely, but you may get spoke breakage after some time riding.
Again, I don't quite agree. While the wheels
probably won't fold over if a spoke breaks, spoke breakage is close to catastrophic failure. Wheels don't have spare spokes that they can break and maintain integrity. Low spoke count wheels doubly so. Each individual spoke on the
Aksium's is carrying a lot of load. Break one and the others have to take up the load. That puts a lot of stress on the other spokes.
Originally Posted by
Wilfred Laurier
If I were you I would save my pennies until that day comes (if it ever does) and buy a new rear wheel (the front wheel is much less heavily loaded and generally you won't have an issue) with 32 spokes and a Shimano hub (I find Shimano hub bearings and overall construction to be the best).
Sorry to be so contrary but, again, I don't agree. 32 spokes is a good idea. But there are far better hubs out there than Shimano. The cup and cones of the Shimano means that the hubs need regular and rather frequent maintenance. They also need to be adjusted properly to roll smoothly and that they can go out of adjustment rather easily if not properly assembled. A cartridge bearing hub similar to the
Aksium's bearings don't have to be serviced as often...if ever...and in my experience roll much more smoothly than the Shimano hubs. The best ones I've run across in terms of smoothness is any of the White Industries hubs. The MI5 or T11 are excellent choices. The T11 has a slightly higher flange on the driveside which allows for shorter spokes where you need them. As an added bonus both come with titanium freehub bodies which significantly reduce the wheel weight.
I would also suggest building (or having a wheel built) with triple butted spokes like the DT Alpine III. Those go a very long way towards a very strong wheel for a heavy rider.
Originally Posted by
fat2fit
Hi,
I just got my first road bike. I have been riding an entry level mountain bike but often found myself traveling on pavement most of the time and it really made me want to get a faster bike to commute around town. I found a used road bike in great shape and was a high-end bike at the time of it being brand new.
My bike is a 2014 Opus Allegro 3.0. It's full carbon with 21mm rims, and 20 spoke wheels front and rear. I've ridden it around for about an hour before buying it and everything seemed solid, and I had it inspected at a local shop. It has Shimano Ultegra groupset and rides awesome. I do have a few concerns. I did find a source for the wheels and they suggest do not exceeding 120kg for long-term, thats 263lbs - so I'm right on the mark if you add in my bike+gear. I may be actually over that limit by a bit, but once I drop some lbs that will be okay. Is this just a suggestion for long-term riding, or will they still hold up to a heaver rider until I can afford to lose some weight?
I used to weigh 360lbs, I'm down to 250 right now and plan to continue to drop weight into the 200 range, buying this road bike was to help me achieve my cardio. I've been reading some things and have a few concerns.
Will my 20 spoke wheels be okay at my weight? They are: Mavic Aksium Elite wheels
What should I put in for tire pressure? I've never owned a road bike that has super narrow and hard tires like this bike does. I will need to purchase a new air pump that can pump these up, can you recommend anything under $50.00 that I can keep in my backpack while I ride? I was told to run up to 150psi if I can, due to my weight.
Anything I should lookout for or be aware of on this bike? Any other suggestions? Thank you.
I'm not going to address everything here but I will address the pressure. No, you don't need to run them at 150 psi. 100 psi will do just fine for your weight. Few tires can take 150 psi without blowing off the rim.
The one thing I will address is
how you ride. With thin tires and low spoke count, you really need to develop the ability to ride "light" in the saddle. You should ride with your weight partially suspended by your legs and arms at all times. You should just "sit" in the saddle but you kind of hover over it while you ride. You aren't standing but you are in less contact with the saddle than if you put your full weight on it.
As you approach potholes and cracks in pavement, rise up off the saddle so that the bike isn't in contact with you at all. Ride with loose arms and legs as well. This will allow the bike to bounce upward and reduce the impact on the bicycle while your legs and arms provide the absorption of the impact. The very last thing you want to do (in any situation, really) is to "brace for impact". You can't and if you are stiff, you
and the bike will just get hammered.