Old 07-06-20, 06:36 PM
  #213  
cudak888 
www.theheadbadge.com
 
cudak888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,513

Bikes: http://www.theheadbadge.com

Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,395 Times in 2,092 Posts
Small update. I asked Tern if they sold just the front fender out of that set...and, believe it or not, they warrantied that fenders. Still surprised, and very pleasantly so - after all, this isn't quite a standard application here. Tern's folding design and welds may be questionable, but their US customer service goes above and beyond for their accessories, that's for sure.

The replacements arrived today...and I decided to do something unconventional. Again.



That's the new rear fender on the front, mounted backwards and cut to length. Rather that risk damaging the front fender again, I decided to play with the new spare.

Not only did this save me from having to drill rivets out and use the slotted (and inherently weaker) part of the front fender, I was able to make use of both front fender mounting points under the fork.

The rear required a spare, concave front brake spacer. The shallowest curve I could find, and it matched up perfectly.



Using the rear fender allowed me to play a bit of French Fender Day with this thing, running the fender just a wee bit longer at both ends. The SKS design has a cap at each end which made it impossible to mess up the cut, but the end result under that cap looks pretty good.

The rear brake bridge hole has been repurposed for the stays.



I still have a fairly long, dangling fender to deal with here though, but I might put the original fender stay bolt hole to work by bending a pair of stays from the stock fender position to the V-brake studs on the booster. If I do this, I'll never have to deal with rattling or rubbing...ever.



Also, that tube got a (presumably) pinch flat in it right after I re-laced it to the Bafang hub. I have to patch it tonight or tomorrow, but I've also decided to change my non-crossover lacing on the hub motor.



I read a fair bit about the difficulties of lacing 1-cross on a small wheel, and had decided that this was an OK - if not perfect - way around it.

Then I realized that the 1-cross, 350W Bafang motors on JUMP's later 5.5 electric bikes do cross - as all the spokes on these are inboard.



I'll do this modification while I have the tube out. Hope I don't have to replace any spoke nipples from the previous tensioning.

Originally Posted by SHBR
I've gone the other direction, I presently prefer to ride my bikes instead of work on them.
I like both - but there's always something appealing about doing what hasn't been done before.

-Kurt
__________________












cudak888 is offline  
Likes For cudak888: