Originally Posted by
Andrew R Stewart
While winter riding calls for thinner lubes then the hot summers do in this case it's the presence of (first) lube and it's barrier to water penetration (second) that help offset repeating of the freezing inside the mech. Hence for this issue thicker lube works longer/better.
WD40 isn't meant to be much of a lube (WD is for "Water Displacer"). It's best attribute is the low cost and the ease of application. Neither do much for the long term need for lube. "jigaloo" isn't something I know about, off to Google... Andy
Back from G Land- Jigaloo looks to be one more thin spray lube with grand claims. Silicone lubes have never done well in the bike world.
WD40 is better as a lubricant than it is at displacing water. It’s chemical composition is completely nonpolar. It also contains about 25% mineral oil which remains after the solvent evaporates.
Originally Posted by
PdalPowr
Thanks for the info.
Agreed on the WD40. It has its uses.
There is very little actual lube in there.
Jigaloo has a bit more lube and sticking power than WD.
I was going to use the W.D. to flush out water contaminated crud.
Then oil up after. I have a good feeling that water/crud is the culprit as was suggested.
The front fork/handle bar bearing didn't want to turn. When I put on a bit of pressure
I could see fracturing ice stick out from the bearing.
I am going to make a tarp shelter that can be folded down over the bike.
It takes care of me. I should take care of it.😉
You are incorrect in thinking that the WD50 will flush out any thing that will dissolved in water. It simply doesn’t have the capacity to dissolve the water based material. The lubricant in WD40 isn’t all that different from any oil that you could put into a freewheel.
Work on trying to get the freewheel working but don’t spend a whole lot of time on it. Freewheels are cheap.