Thread: Chains
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Old 12-22-14, 01:48 PM
  #68  
rensho3
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Bikes: Fuji Elite, 3Rensho track, Trek Madone 6.9, Specialized MTB, GT MTB, Cannondale Cad3 fixie

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Originally Posted by Six jours
JFWIW, I have lots of experience with 1/8" and 3/32" on the track, both masterlinked and riveted. I've even ridden kilo (not superfast, but 1:08/1:09 territory, back before disks and aerobars) with the cheapest 3/32" chain available at the time. I've never had the slightest hint of chain trouble on the track, so I guess the argument about masterlink vs. rivet vs. whatever is academic.

Having said that, I managed the old Olympic track at Dominguez Hills, long ago, and noted that the extremely flexible KHS rental bikes threw chains on a regulars basis. I replace all the 3/32" chains with 1/8" chains figuring that would solve the problem, and it had no effect at all. My theory, at this point, is that if you have a bike with chain problems, it's probably the bike and not the chain. And if you have a bike without chain problems, you can probably do whatever you want re. chains and continue to not have chain problems.

My other theory is that most of my theories are stupid, though, so...

<edit> I'm so old at this point that you have to understand I'm talking about 3/32" chains for six and seven speed freewheels. I have no idea whether today's chains for eleventyseven speed cassettes would even fit on a 3/32" track cog, let alone whether they would hold up. I hear you have to take out a bank loan to buy one anyway, so don't know why a trackie would bother.
I had one of those KHS bikes, and 6jours is right, it was the bike. I was only 5'5" and weighed 150; I can't imagine what normal sized person would have experienced. It did clear people off my wheel coming out of turn 4 though, as the frame flex would move the bike substantially side to side in the final sprint. I replace the 3/32 with 1/8 chain, and it still popped off.
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