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Old 04-16-20, 08:01 AM
  #22515  
Ged117 
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Bikes: 1951 Sun Wasp, 1953 Armstrong Consort, 1975 Raleigh Competition, 1980 Apollo Gran Sport, 1988 Schwinn Voyageur, Mystery MTB

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Originally Posted by sykerocker
My experience with the S5 (I use my '69 Sprite as one of my two daily commuters) is that, given the kludginess of the left side actuation, I don't treat it as a 1-2-3-4-5 five-speed. I tend to run the bike as a dual range three-speed: With the left lever forward, I'm running 2-3-4 off the right side. With the left lever back, I'm running 1-3-5 off the right side. Now, my setup is completely factory stock except for the right side being controlled by a plain old AW handlebar switch since I've broken the right side lever twice now in my six year ownership of the bike. I've yet to find a third replacement, and if I do it's just going to get bagged and stored, and offered with the bike should I ever decide to sell it. At the moment, highly unlikely.

With a 23t sprocket on the hub, the bike is slightly under geared for me (a 21 or 22 would be better) so using it as a dual-range works fine. About the only time I wish it shifted better are on some lazy days when I want to climb my driveway and am feeling lazy. At which point, I stop the bike, get the left side actuated, and with the right side in low, climb the slight hill in first. If the bike's in one of it's ornery moods and won't shift, I just climb the hill in second and mutter slightly.
Good information, thanks. Ideally, I'd like to stay with the four-speed. The extra low makes the bike far more useful to me in my riding here in the Ottawa River valley, and I've just serviced the hub with a good clean, bearings, and grease. I'm currently running 48t x 18t and it is a blast to ride with my nice-riding but heavier AO8 frame. I'm keen to try this wheelset on my lighter '50s Armstrong Reynolds 531 frame once it's ready. Then the AO8 will become my first fixed-gear road bike and general experimental frame.

Originally Posted by Salubrious
I've stayed away from the 5 speed conversion. 4 speeds are cool just as they are.

To adjust the shifter, in low the cable should be only just tight enough so that the toggle chain is as far out as it will go. It doesn't do to put any further tension on the shift cable beyond that- such will only lead to poor shifting. If this is set right, getting into low is easier. I really like the 4 speed concept, as the bike becomes considerably more practical, but I don't trust the shifter when climbing out of the saddle in low, so I hold it in low so it can't jump out of gear. But this is also the gear in which the hub gets the most abuse; I've got two of them that skip nastily in low.
Thanks for this Salubrious . I have it adjusted so that in Low, the end of the control rod is flush with the end of the left side axle end (as per Sturmey instructions). If I try your method, I'm thinking it will be slightly tighter and the shifting may improve. Does that sound right?
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