Originally Posted by
Beach Bob
Two thoughts....
1) my LBS mechanics scream at me every time I suggest that I want to go tubeless on my roadbikes.... as far as they are concerned, no worth the headaches for road (but most definitely worth it for mountain bikes)
2) I usually use Michelin Pro4s on my bikes.... they are an absolute ***** to pull over the rim lips. In my garage (and I do throw it in my jersey pocket if my wife isn't available for road side pick up) I use a Kool Stop bead jack (google it...use the vendor link of your choice...). Absolute miracle gadget for tough tires. When I burn out my supply of Michelin's I'll probably just to stick to Conti GP4k/5k in the future just because they do mount so much easier....
Yep, I tend to agree with your LBS. I get a flat on tubes maybe once every 1,000 to 2,000 miles? I once went 4,000 miles on Zipp 303 Firecrests without a flat. And fixing a flat on tube tires is so fast and easy, tubeless on road bikes just doesn’t seem to add up for me.
That bead jack is a very cool invention and looks very handy in the shop environment. It looks like it puts minimal lateral stress on the wall of the rim, which I think is the big issue with using a tire lever. My only issue would be that I wouldn’t want to carry that tool with me in the event of a roadside flat.
Originally Posted by
blakcloud
I feel your pain.
I have a pair of Bontrager Aeolus 3 wheels and I could not for the life of me get the Rene Herse Chinook Pass tires on that wheelset. It got to the point that I thought if I try anymore I was gong to break the rim, so I just gave up. Like you I was using a plastic tire lever. Now after seeing your mishap I am convinced that if you can't put it on by hand then it the combination is not worth it.
For comparison sake the tires went on easily on Bontrager Paradigm aluminum rims.
Sorry to hear about your mishap. Even though it might be seen as user error, have thought about asking about a warranty claim or crash replacement? You might be surprised by their response.
Good luck.
I think my lesson learned here is to only use tires that go on without a tool. If I can’t do it by hand, I probably won’t do it at all. I’m not sure how DT Swiss will handle the claim, but the wheel is on its way to them. They can replace the rim, but whether it’ll be considered warranty or I’ll have to pay for crash replacement is not clear. There aren’t any warnings against using a tire lever in either DT Swiss’s manual or Canyon’s. Anyway, it’ll get replaced one way or the other. Canyon said they would step in if DT Swiss doesn’t “hook me up.” The rims are paired with the Ultimate Evo 10.0, which weighs in at 14.7 lbs with full AXS, disc brakes, pedals, cages, etc. It’s a very, very fast climber. It’s a much different feel than my Roubaix.
Originally Posted by
cp88mb1
That is such a bummer - sorry to hear that. We’ll all be better off when the industry can settle on tubeless standards. I installed those same tires on my enve ses 3.4s a few days ago and was able to do so by hand, easily! It was also painless to seat them.
Last year I installed a pair of GP 5000 TLs on a pair of DT Swiss prc 1400s and while it required tire levers it wasn’t terrible. If you replace your wheel maybe try those? The set up was pretty sweet.
Good luck.
Thanks for condolences. I have the Conti 5000s on my Roubaix with Zipp 303s and I like them quite a bit. This bike just happened to come with Schwalbe Pro One TT tires, so I figured I’d give them a shot. The treads are paper thin, so they didn’t last. I had a pair of Specialized Turbo Cotton 28s in the garage and will throw them on. These are the “Hell of the North” version, which has a bit more tread hanging over the sidewall. Designed for cobble riding, as the name implies. These are great tires as well. Best of all, they go on and off very easily.
I’ll probably stick with tubed tired on these wheels for the time being. I’m a little gunshy after being traumatized over these wheels.