I'm no chainline figures expert, so I'm just going to suggest a couple of things which may help you:-
The old Sram Force crankset with removable spider. NorthShoreBillet does a 104/64 spider which fits that crank.
Engin Cycles does a 120/80?bcd spider ($$$) which also fits that crank.
Easton EA90 (alu version) or the stupid expensive carbon EA90SL crank. RaceFace 104/64bcd 2x ('10') spider mates with that crank.
The old Cannondale Hollowgram crank also works with a certain 104/64? spider, but I can't remember which one at the moment.
One option to get around different cable-pull between road shifters and mtb (front only?) is to slap on that gizmo (forget the name) which the cable wraps around, thus changing pull.
I did find when putting together my 2x build that using a 'road' front derailleur (for 50/34 for example); the cage was too long, and thus the lower end of the cage hit the chainstay when shifting down to my small 23t ring. So switched to a front mtb derailleur with shorter cage length.
Playing around with chainring spacers a bit would tweak chainline a little. Rings will also have a certain offset-figure to them.
Unfortunately for you I started with 10sp Sram road shifters, so am using Sram mtb derailleurs which have the same pull.
40/23 or 24 at times, using Easton crank with RaceFace 104/64 and TA Specialites 10/11sp rings, which by memory go up to 43t? in 104bcd.
Wolftooth chainrings and TA spacers.
Note some of the TA rings come in two different tab widths to best visually match up with spider arm-end width.
Currently on a 12-27 cassette with mid-length cage rear clutched derailleur. That's enough low end for the time being.
Gearoop Taiwan has a direct-mount 44/28 ringset, but that's not your ideal 26t (or lower). Not sure if its pattern mates with that Force crank though.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...p?f=4&t=164058