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Old 01-01-21, 04:13 PM
  #244  
dddd
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Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

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Originally Posted by sd5782
I am overhauling a 1981 Miyata 210 mixte for my niece and am now at tire choice time. The nice aluminum Araya rims are hookless I believe, and I am looking at the traditional Kendas for this novice rider. On my vintage Schwinns, I have been running Kendas at lower pressures for comfort. Never had a tire pop on those Weinmanns at 80+ psi either. Anyhow, it seems that the seldom seen K34 lists 70psi and a slightly heavier construction with the same tread as the venerable K35. What’s not to like, I ask here?

I am also possibly looking at black walls for aesthetics on this bike. All gum walls for me but this gray bike with black cables and seat may look less “old” to her. I am also putting upright bars and changing the brake levers. Has anyone had experience with the K34s in black wall?

I also see a Kenda in 1 3/8” that could be interesting and may even fit nicely. The rims on it are labeled 27x1 1/4” which means little I know, but they are fairly wide. The stock tires are so checked at the gum wall sides as to be unreadable. They measure 27-28mm and are shot from age and exposure, although I did take a mechanical shake down ride with those on it. Thanks for any info on these Kenda alternatives. Trying to keep price down for her so no high dollar alternatives considered.

Update, these are hooked rims. Rear has a pronounced flat spot in one area that won’t come out but will be okay for recreational riding for niece.
The Kenda 1-3/8" tires may measure just a couple of millimeters wider than the ones on there now, nowhere near the suggested "35-630" molded onto the tire.

Flat spots can usually be pulled out with a 3-foot rope tied to a post and to the rim at the low spot. Remove three spokes first and loosen two more adjacent to those, and don't over-do it with too much yanking impact. You can always go back and do a little more correction but there is considerable work tensioning and truing after each effort.
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