Old 02-14-21, 12:29 PM
A Roadie Forever
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 9,389

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

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I'm not a clyde but this advice has nothing to do with weight and everything to do with making seats work.

Play with the seat adjustments. Go for rides with with the wrenches for both your seatpin (to adjust height) and the seatpost clamp. Seat tilt can make a huge difference, especially lowering the seat nose. (Two tricks: 1) put a piece of tape 1/4" or 1/2 cm above the top of the seat tube so you can return to where you started. Mark the seat rail with a magic marker at the clamp edge, 2) Get a 2-bolt seatpost. Those make dialing in the tilt easy. Back off the rear bolt. Tweak the front bolt (say) 1/4 turn tighter. Tighten the rear. You can do the opposite and be exactly back to where you started every time.)

You may find that you need to have a real nose down position to keep your perenium happy. Not ideal. That will put more weight on your hands and perhaps require putting in research on how to minimize hand issues. If you post a picture with that nose down setup, I promise you that more than a few here will tell you how wrong your setup is. (It's a trade-off. Crotch comfort and a sex life with possible hand/sliding forward issues and forum disapproval vs what you are seeing now.)

You may not be able to make this seat work. But this effort will educate you to what is better or worse for you and help you pick another seat that will do better. If you were here in the States, I'd say run to the nearest bike shop and try seats but you have pointed out that isn't so easy for you.

2-bolt seatposts - two very good ones by reputable companies are the Nitto and the Thompson. Nitto makes one with normal setback and one with more setback. (Setback is the distance from the center of the rail clamp of the post to the centerline of the post/seat tube. 2 cm is "normal" and what you will see on almost every bike photo of 3 decades ago.) The seatpost diameter will be stamped on the shaft of your post, hidden by the seat tube. If not, use calipers.

Look for a post with the same diameter (important!). For setback. look at what you have. Measure it. Also note if your seat is at the limit of the rails (pushed all the way back or forward). If it is, consider a post with (say) a cm more or less setback to get your current position and leave room to tweak in both directions. I'd also inquire whether the model that looks right is suitable for your weight. Both Nitto and Thompson are solid, reputable companies. Getting that answer shouldn't be difficult.

As I said, I am not a clyde. But I do ride a nose down seat and have for decades. I consider seat type and position the most critical fit issue on a bike. I've had to do real tweaking with my handlebars and brake levers to keep my hands happy but is it worth it to ride in complete comfort and feel perfect "down there" when I step off the bike. (I ride with my handlebars far lower than you as I am an ex-racer who is also light, skinny and long. A very poor combo in headwinds!)

And last - you probably already know this but the seats with cutouts or grooves can be a godsend to those of us with perenium issues. I stopped being able to ride my old racing seats as I approached your age. My first grooved seat was a revelation. Since then, my favorite (on 4 of my 5 bikes) has a cutout. 5th is grooved.

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