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Old 04-23-20, 07:30 PM
  #3060  
zjrog
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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Bikes: 1986 KHS Fiero, 1989 Trek 950, 1990 Trek 7000, 1991 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, 1992 Trek 1400, 1997 Cannondale CAD2 R300, 1998 Cannondale CAD2 R200, 2002 Marin San Rafael, 2006 Cannondale CAAD8 R1000, 2010 Performance Access XCL9R

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Originally Posted by merziac
You might want to have the heads checked now, they can warp from being overtorqued and they have very little tolerance to begin with, can't be too clean or wrong surfacing as well.
I will check.

Originally Posted by nesteel
Well, if you're gonna make a mistake, do it with torque-to-yeild bolts. Once they go past their elastic limit, they actually provide almost no extra load. Take a GOOD straight edge (like a Starret) and some feeler gauges to the head and deck surface to check them for flatness.
Torque-to-yield, I certainly agree. They sure felt odd loosening, I already tossed the originals, but will measure against the replacements when they get here, out of sheer curiouosity. I know a guy with the right straight edges and feelers.

Originally Posted by merziac
And please do be careful with that, Ford calls for virtually zero scratching of either surface for proper sealing long term as well as very little warpage.
The heads were only off long enough to swap the gaskets. I had already let this project snowball. Bought the engine, running, for $600 4 years ago.
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