I don't get the part about sanding paint off the side to fit into the aerobar. Are they different brands that don't fit together?
It's a Profile Design stem, the Aeria Ultimate. It's a TT or tri stem, but the closest stem I could find to match the handlebars since the company doesn't sell the stem any longer.
The bars are cheap because without the matching stem, most aero stems out there won't perfectly match the clamping space on the bars.
It'll make more sense when I post pics of the finished work. I decided to carry on and finish it, I'm running new cable housings and cables now. I did the brakes last night, shift cables and housing comes in the mail today.
The Aeria Ultimate has a tiny bit of bulge on the left/right sides of the stem where it meets the handlebars (on any bike). No idea why they did that versus flat. It almost seems like a minor manufacturing defect if you ask me. Anywho, this minor bulge was keeping it from fitting into the gap at the clamping area. I probably could have been ham fisted and forced it in there and scratched the daylights out of the the bar, but decided to take a more finessed approach.
I just sanded that little bulge down just enough to more easily slide in and out. That's all. No cutting, no structural, only cosmetics.
I went with the Aeria so I could do a bit of cable tuck on a bike that isn't a super modern full hidden cable setup. I really really like the look so far. The weight gain on the stem/bar overall was offset by previous upgrades to saddle/shoes. About a year ago I changed those. Shoes alone was a mammoth drop in weight. Saddle was pretty shocking too since it was a generic really padded Giant road saddle before, versus a carbon Fizik. Also, the SLR aero wheels I got used a year or two ago are also a lot lighter than the OEM alloy aero wheels.
It's taken a mountain of patience in running the cable, trying out the steering and pulling the levers to get it "just so". It's not so bad if you bother to leave the old bare cables in the bike and then use "cable liner" to feed your new cable housing and cable through.
While the bike is down, should probably re-grease the rear DT hub and check spoke tensions.