uncle uncle

I think I would use two identical 1/2" thick (or so) sheets of somewhat soft wood (cut to the same outside perimeter dimensions). One slotted just enough to slip past the center of the inside portion of the hub, with a center hole just big enough to clear the cone area of the hub. The second block I would cut a hole big enough for the outer concave cone area portion of the hub. Then, I would drill matching holes for bolts, maybe one in each of the jelly bean cutouts on the free flange of the hub thru both pieces of wood simultaneously. Then some more bolt holes about an inch or so outside of the flange perimeter. Then, I would bolt the two pieces of the wood together, over the free flange, carefully tensioning the bolts until the wood made ample contact around and with the flange of the hub. Then, I'd clamp the wood in a vise, and see if I could get the free wheel loose. The idea is to obtain enough clamping force between the wood and the flange to provide resistance to break free the freewheel, yet not transfer any of that load directly to the hub. The wood provides the "sacrificial" barrier to carry the load, and not the hub.