tomtomtom123

I know that the digital caliper that I use can't be trusted for the 0.0X mm digit, but it is fairly accurate to the nearest 0.Xmm, within +/- 0.05mm. I know that it can sometimes skip so I always double or triple check the zero and remeasure again.

So I'm pretty sure that the maximum total variation in the spoke hole centering to the flange is somewhere around 0.25mm +/- 0.05mm. I'm building a 406 20" wheel, and small wheels seem to be more sensitive to minor spoke tension adjustments due to the shorter spoke lengths and small diameter. (edit: I did a rough diagonal measurement between the holes and the axle and it seems that the holes are not centered to the axle, offset a similar amount as to the flange).

Yes, the price for the Novatec hub was very cheap, but there isn't many other choices readily available for 74mm hubs with the spoke counts that match the rims that are available locally. The only alternative hubs I've found locally are either unknown no-name hubs, or the loose ball OEM Quando front hubs that are recently found on some current Dahon and Tern wheels. I was thinking about going with the loose ball hub, but recently I had trouble finding a replacement cone for a pitted one in the rear OEM hub on my dahon bike, so I'd probably have to buy 2 of the Quando hubs, and use one as a spare if I need to replace the cone. So I thought I'd stay with cartridge bearings for the front.

The only worry I have is the possibility that the cheap Novatec hubs on Aliexpress being rejected units, for being outside of tolerance.

The design of the end caps would have been better if the bearings were set in around 1.5mm mm past the face of the hub body, and the caps went inside by 1.0mm. Because most dust particles would hit the bearing radially and against the direction of travel, instead of laterally. The huge gap on the Novatec hub between the cap and the body lets in everything, except for dust that is flying sideways, when the bike is at a standstill..