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Old 06-17-19, 09:45 AM
  #22  
tallbikeman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Yolo County, West Sacramento CA
Posts: 517

Bikes: Modified 26 inch frame Schwinn Varsity with 700c wheels and 10 speed cassette hub. Ryan Vanguard recumbent. 67cm 27"x1 1/4" Schwinn Sports Tourer from the 1980's. 1980's 68cm Nishiki Sebring with 700c aero wheels, 30 speeds, flat bar bicycle.

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As mentioned the seatpost can be used to push the seat backwards and a longer stem can be used to push the handlebars forward. The handlebars should never be so close to your knees as you pedal as to interfere with one another. Everything with bicycling is fashion with function coming in second. If everyone is riding carbon then don't buy aluminum. If everyone is buying bicycles with higher top tubes then don't buy a mixte. If one can step back from fashion just a tad then solutions to fit and size problems become much simpler. I realize that overcoming the herd mentality is very difficult but sometimes necessary to find an adequate solution for your size and fit issues. A bicycle that is small is just that as is a bicycle that is large for your size. I believe the two most important dimensions are the standover height and the top tube length. These dimensions largely dictate the safety and comfort you will have with the bicycle. I personally feel that setback seatposts and overly long handlebar stems are stopgap measures to getting the right size frame. Keep in mind that a lot of racers ride smaller frames strictly for weight reduction and knowingly use setback seatposts and long handlebar stems to cope with the undersize bicycle. Keep riding and experimenting. It took decades before I settled on a specific frame size for me. The frame is large for my size but once the components are on and adjusted these types of large frames do fit me better than all the other types of frame sizes I've tried. Everyone is different so this opinion only relates to my experiences.
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