Originally Posted by cudak888

I'll echo the sentiments here about the front derailer. The original Cyclone, later second-gen model, or Cyclone MII will all do fantastically. The endless band models are very nice and slick too, if you start with a brand-new one.

However, I wouldn't suggest barcons here, and I'd go so far as to say this is an absolutely ridiculous suggestion that completely ignore OP's current handlebars. Shifters have no business sticking out of the side of an already-wide, flat handlebar? I can't imagine trying to shift them that way. Not to mention that it'd be a great way to induce front end handling problems when shifting, or to cause shifting if one brushes an object with the handlebars. Unless that recommendation also comes with one for North Road bars or some upright bar that sweeps back, barcons have no business as a recommendation here. For that matter, I don't think any of these 22.2 diameter bars would be large enough to fit barcons in the end, so it's a moot point.

I know there's a long-standing bias against stem shifters here because of their use on low-end 10-speeds, but a set of these would be perfect with the existing flat bar. That, or thumbies.

Also, I've never quite had the same love for the Suntour GT/VGT that the forum has. Sure, they're better than Nuovo Record for accurate shifts, but their return spring is hellishly stiff. Plus, all the folks who still fawn over them have caused them to regularly hit the $35-45 mark on eBay, when they're a $10 derailer at best. The upgrades on the OP's Super Course are sensible and tasteful, but the build is not tethered to period correctness - as such, any later 1980's or 90's Shimano or SunTour derailer will do, and will be a lot easier to source. Furthermore, the lesser spring tension of these later derailers, which will make shifting easier.

FYI, if that's an Atom/Malliard freewheel, changing the chain could result in chain skate (where the narrower modern chain snags between the gaps and rides the V-shaped grooves Atom on the top of their freewheel cog teeth). As such, changing the chain may force you into swapping out the freewheel as well to avoid problems. While these wider chains and stamped freewheels aren't ideal for smooth shifting, I'd measure chain wear before changing it just because it's "old." If it works as intended and you are pleased with the current, period levels of performance, why mess with perfectly good parts? Unless you specifically desire buttery smooth shifts, save your money to replace the plastic Simplex bits and let the chain and freewheel wear out first.

-Kurt