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Old 01-22-21, 12:06 PM
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USAZorro
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
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Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs

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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
Or, modify that one. My thought - drill for a #2 or #4 screw though the outside plate, run a nice neat SS pan head from the outside, through the outer plate, through a bushing made from aluminum or steel tubing, though a washer, through the cutout on the inner cage plate, through another washer and a lock washer and nut or just a red locktite'd nut. Cut off the bottom of the cage. Could look like it was made that way.

Ben, the guy who enjoys making bikes different. (I have three I could show you for inspiration.)
I may come back to ask for that visual.

Originally Posted by gugie
If the derailleur is hitting the tire, move the crankset out with a longer BB spindle? If you want to try a different rear derailleur, I've had success with Cyclone MkII's.

That's all I've got.
The RD works like a charm. I am 99.99% certain that I'd have no issues shifting if I could bring the FD down farther (to within 3-5mm of the rings). The front only contacts the tire when I adjust the FD (looking from atop it down the seat tube) clockwise far enough to facilitate the shift to the inside ring.

Originally Posted by cudak888
Paging our resident constructeur @gugie.

Yes. That type of modification.

Alternatively, would anyone know the dimensions of the current Tiagra FD-4700? Looks pretty short.




-Kurt
Kurt,

That looks like it would be a viable answer - presuming it's a bottom pull and would come with an adapter for a 28.6 seat tube. I can look that up.

Other points about C&Vyness are taken, however this project has already strayed so far from purity, it is no longer really a concern of mine.
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