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Old 02-08-21, 11:45 AM
  #40  
Russ Roth
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
Posts: 2,799

Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem

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Originally Posted by Happy Feet
I've bolded a couple of parts.

It's true many people don't know what to look for but on this forum (and others of course) people also don't listen very well to what they need. Many people, just wanting to ride some basic trails, are told they need bikes in the K's instead of the C's. Recommendations fall somewhere between the real budget and the real purpose. The "you need a better bike" doesn't really help that much.

The bike above is just an example of an alternative that gets a person in and riding for less than thousands. If given the choice I would probably like a modern bike as well but this will do most of the time. The issue for me isn't poverty, I have a 50K line of credit I could tap at any time, but I have a home and three kids and like to live withing my means and juggle several expensive hobbies, making progress upgrading in each of them along a schedule. The modern FS mtb is next on the list but I'll wait until the time is right and a deal appears.

Modern brakes are good, and there is something to be said for modern geometry, but I think FS and larger tire sizes only really come into play once you start getting air via jumps, drops or ledges or start really hammering uneven surfaces in a way that will break less forgiving bikes. Many new riders aren't looking to do that and that's the question/info that guides me in suggesting a cheaper alternative or saying they pretty well need a better modern bike.

In the meantime, I ride what I brought regularly and upgrade as I go (as you noted in your post). Some people might say that's pouring good money into a lost cause but most of my upgrades move from bike to bike. The suspension and second wheelset came from a $100 donor bike. Other than that; saddle, grips, pedals, bars, dropper, even crankset and cassette, can move to other projects.

Not everyone is into project bikes of course, but a cheaper entry bike can also serve as a back up once a better bike is purchased.

Cheers
I will agree that people suggest way too high for what can be gotten away with. I bought my MTB new in 2018 but it was an old stock 2015 Cannondale that I guess the company found in storage since the shop was able to order direct from C-dale for it. Was a 2k bike for 950 and worth every dime. I've looked at modern bikes in the shops and honestly I think 700.00 is really the best entry level price point but even low end geometry is the same as what was top end only 15 years ago, its something else that has just trickled down.
My bike is a hardtail and I only had 2 other MTBs a 97 Raleigh m55 which was fine but heavy and didn't handle that well and was quickly traded for a 99 raleigh m400 which was noticeably better and had more aggressive geometry. I will say that even though I'm slower on the road by 3-4mph then I was then and about 45lbs heavier the speed difference on my modern mtb is obvious. Where I couldn't compete in beginner class races with the Raleigh I actually came close to placing with the C-cale. There's less walking, actually haven't walked a rock field since getting on it as it just rolls over, and handling small drops and jumps just comes smoother. Although I know that a 500.00 bike wouldn't do as well, from what I've seen they'd still do as good and probably better then that Raleigh. When it comes to road I don't think the whole aero push matters much to the average person nor with there be the same disadvantage of using a 20yo road bike vs a new one all things being equal since road geometry hasn't changed much at all and they still use the same wheel size, even tires had moved towards 23 and 25c tires. But mtb I don't think the same is true but as you say, it still only requires C notes to get there.
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