If there is lateral runout, then the rims could be trued, yes. You'll need a spoke wrench...these are available as single size and multi-size tools (to fit various nipple sizes). There's definitely a science to wheel truing (physics of the spokes pulling the rim left or right), but there also seems to be an "art" to it as well...trying to balance spoke tension to not overload one side or the other, etc.
I'll 3D print a key and get on it... I'm sure it'll be a fun experience - there's a Sheldon Brown article and plenty of other online stuff - so I'm happy to give it a go.
I gave it a good spin yesterday and it definitely needs fixin'!
Originally Posted by
DorkDisk
A bottom bracket overhaul would be advisable, if not a new bottom bracket is highly recommended. UN55 is the one to get now, for the hollow spindle.
It had a UN55 square taper bracket installed about a two years ago, should have about 5000-6000km on it. I didn't plan on changing it, buuuuut... I have chainline problems... the largest chaining won't fit under the derailleur! D'oh!
The new (front) derailleur doesn't extend out far enough - I've got the old derailler on just now so I can still ride it. Still, I done-a-dum-dum. Never occurred to me the front derailer would have a different max-extension!
The one I installed is an FD-A073 which apparently is intended for a chainline of 45mm. The crankset is an FC-M371, which is a 50mm chainline - so
something needs to be changed. Do you reckon a 45mm chainline bottom bracket would do me, or would I be better chaning the front derailleur? To be fair, the current derailer doesn't really need changed - it looks worn and sad and the plating is blotchy, but it works.
Originally Posted by
DorkDisk
Deore V brakes have cartridge pad holders, and Alivio have non cartridge pads. Cartridge is better as it avoids re-setup, but there are better pads than Shimano pads. Kool Stop pads can be purchased as replacement slide-ins or with cartridge holders.
Oooh - I shall change the pads over once these are worn down
Originally Posted by
DorkDisk
You might've gummed up your derailleur; you don't grease a derailleur. What I do is throw it in the ultrasonic cleaner to get all the grease and gunk off, lube the pivots with a very light oil, and disassemble/lube the pulleys. A little smear of grease on the spring is a good idea but that's it.
Sorry, I mis-spoke. It
was gummed up, but not because of grease!
When I said "greased" I just meant "lubricated". It just hadn't had maintenance... or even cleaning... in a very long time - I dismantled it and gave it a deep clean, as I want it as a spare... I removed nearly 100g (dry weight) of dirt from it... it was crazy. Black cement. It was nasty! I'll properly maintain the new one though!
So, I was always told that you grease any heavy-load areas and oils were for exposed and areas where you need the oil to seep into. Applying that principle to a derailer, I would have thought that you would have greased the inside of the jockey wheels, and oiled pretty much anything else. Does that sound reasonable? If not, do let me know! last thing I want to do is gum this one up (though, to be fair, if it's getting regular maintenance as it should be, it probably won't be a huge problem as long as I dont go overboard). Let me know anyway!
Anyway, that's all been replaced with a new derailleur that accommodates the 34T chainwheel
Originally Posted by
DorkDisk
Rim brakes like clean, parallel, flat, true, and round brake tracks so IMO it is worth the time to make them so.
I'll 3D print a key or two for it and teach myself then. Gonna be.... fun?
Originally Posted by
DorkDisk
Don't overlook simple things like cable routing. Make sure you have all the stops for V brakes, if you have a headset mounted hanger, get a spacer to replace it.
I followed Sheldon Brown's article (sorry I can't link until I have 10 posts
) - tried to keep it short, neat, and going in the right direction. I
think it's alright - I took my time doing it and triple-checked everything before cutting. They're currently too long because I rotated the brake levers forward a little - causing every cable to stick forward. Lesson learned. I'll know for future, and I can adjust it for now once I fully confirm the handlebar/lever positions with a bit of testing.
Originally Posted by
DorkDisk
If you don't have a modern seat, you should consider one. I love vintage bikes, but I don't miss my old seats.
Bet you to it!
The old one wasn't actually too bad - solid plastic with a very slight cushion. I got a modern mountain-biking seat for general use - I fear it's too soft for my liking though.
Butt But, time will tell