Originally Posted by
Kimmo
I think it's a crying shame that only low-end crap like Joytech copy Shimano's cassette body as stressed member design; the DS axle bearing should be next to the dropout, not the middle of the hub. I also prefer cup and cone bearings by a long shot.
And I can't abide Shimano splines in aluminium; in my book it's instant fail unless the extremely rare steel strips are present - which Caden's J-bend hubs have, but the straight-pull hubs don't have them. Ben tells me the cassette bodies on those hubs are 3D-forged and thus harder, but I still think it's not kosher. My main cassette is billet so it won't bite through, but still.
As for 21h Shimano hubs, they've been a thing since 9000, on the C40 and deeper. Pretty much necessitated by 11s dish and the fact deep OCRs aren't a thing.
Basically, I want the bee's knees in every aspect, which inevitably requires some mix and match...
Gotcha. I guess what I mean is, by the time you make the mix match changes, what's the point? Just by DuraAce tubulars?
Cause it'll cost just as much and weigh close.
Dunno... I guess I'm not as picky. I've used the Cadens for 3 seasons now with 0 issues stock and if it wasn't for weight and price, there's a TON of other options. untouched DA "used" tubulars on ebay are Caden price or cheaper as far as I can tell. Caden is so unknown that you could never sell it if needed either.
Like I said I still highly recommend them regardless for what they are. Good luck!