3alarmer 

...I use the old Nashbar version of that same tool. If you are using it in such a way that you expect tightening the tapered wedge will pull your race, I can see how you might scratch the fork crown in some instances. A much better method of using this tool is to just tighten it to the point where the wedged edges make initial contact with the race, but not quite tight enough to contact the crown except very loosely.

Then , using two saw horses (which is what I use), support the tool on each side with the casting ends, not the adjustment bolts, resting across, between both horses. (The adjustment bolts will eventually bend if you use them for support. I guess you cold do this with a vise, if it were mounted in such a way that you had the jaws out over empty space, not the work bench). Drop in some penetrant along the seating line. I use a dead blow hammer and a piece of scrap 2x4 on the top of the fork to pound it down until it drops out of the race. Usually takes only two or three blows. Put something under the working area like a doormat to catch the fork as it drops, because it usually drops all the way to the ground.

I can't ever recall scratching a fork using this method. I, too, am not especially impressed with the Park version, which we have at the co-op here.