Morelock

I've spent more time thinking about DT friction than most should (especially considering how slow I am)
nonetheless, my thoughts
For track you have basically two trees to follow for efficient chains

1.) Pursuiter/bunchie races - get a 3/32 drivetrain and run the newest Dura Ace 11 (until 12 speed comes out) speed chain. Either DIY wax it or use the highly efficient lube of choice (Ceramicspeed, etc) - basically just starting with this chain is most likely going to be more efficient than any 1/8 chain.

2.) (strong) Sprinter - in this case, you could very well break a 3/32 chain, so you want to stick with 1/8. Unfortunately, 1/8 tech doesn't move like 3/32 does, so not as many high tech choices. I'd steer away from the Izumi Super toughness as it's probably less efficient than less "tough" models... but most other 1/8 chains are likely very close in performance out of the box. At home/cheap, your best bet is again, stripping them of factory lube, then applying wax/efficient lube. If you want to spend more (but less than the linked chain) your next step is probably having it "ultra" precision polished. This is basically a super fine abrasive that removes imperfections in the manufacturing process. It's been used (controversially) in motor sports, and likely a fair bit in cycling as well under the radar. I wouldn't be surprised if the linked chain hadn't had something similar done.

Other options are using a hard low friction coating (like on pistons/ moving engine components) on the cog/chainring (I'm working on diy'ing it now) that should reduce friction. And of course bearings/grease etc.

But tl;dr - for most mortals, buy the chain that fits 1 or 2, then wax it and you'll be 95% of the way to what you can buy for any amount of money.