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But, warning #2 , be super careful removing any freewheel from a Phil hub, because the QR skewer holding the remover on will extract the axle (with bearings) from the hub shell! Helpful if that's what you wanted to do, but super annoying when you did not want the axle/bearings subassembly dragged right out of the shell, or even just shifted over by a couple mm (partial extraction).

Phil hubs BITD came with an extra little tool, just a steel cup, intended to be put over the left side of the hub before the QR skewer went through the cup, hub and remover tool. This cup prevented the QR from moving the axle in the hub shell. Many mechanics threw this steel cup away, so there's a shortage of them now. But you don't really need one, if you're careful.

Salamandrine and other experienced mechanics know this, so I'm just posting this warning for the less-experienced or amateur mechanics: As soon as the freewheel starts to budge at all, you have to loosen the skewer. You don't have to remove it completely, just loosen it a little to give the freewheel some slack, room to thread off a little more. Once the freewheel is unthreading easily, and the remover tool no longer needs the QR holding it, only then should you remove the QR completely.

Splined removers don't need a QR holding them in, in my opinion. They have so much engagement that they are not likely to slip, if you're paying attention. Just one more reason I prefer the splined remover type.

Mark B