Thanks to all for the kind input. My experience has been mostly Campagnolo. In fact, one of my main riding bikes has the exact same hubs, same cones, not same bearings and grease (!), for over 30 years now. Which is precisely why this catching feeling struck me as odd. The other hubs I've used in the past could all be dialled in smoothly too.
I've double checked the basics like bearing count and size and reassembled again after posting. I'm fine with the don't fret approach, but wondered if this behavior was something that could be pinpointed.
Free friendly advice is much appreciated. Maybe this 7700 dura ace just isn't even broken in yet!