Originally Posted by
Andrew R Stewart
This comes down to material strengths. The bolt is most likely steel and the fork boss is Al. Besides overtightening starting a bolt crossed up is likely the next reason that threads get damaged. I agree with the longer bolt as the first, locktight as second and would only consider a non reversible method last (perhaps no mater how strong that might be) Andy
Thanks Andy. I rode the bike all summer with no issues. I actually forgot about the caliper bolt problem in the fall, so I never took the bike to my LBS. My plan now is to replace the pads w/o removing the caliper the next time they need to be changed. Perhaps a bit more fiddly to do, but I want to leave the suspect caliper bolt alone as long as it seems happy.