Originally Posted by
dsbrantjr
Third hand tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Third-Hand-Br.../dp/B0787T5KWD Makes it easier to position/secure the pads
Fourth hand tool:
https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Four...dp/B0028N57KK/ I set the brake cable length to put the straddle cable carrier (I don't use link wires, hate 'em) where I want it with the adjuster on the cable hanger screwed out one turn and then use the straddle cable length to position the pads where I want them using the 4th hand tool, then tighten the clamp bolt.. It is a tougher job if you have a fixed-length straddle cable like your 960s, you need to set the pad spacing with the brake cable length.
If you want toe-in (I don't bother) put a rubber band around the rear of the brake pad.
Edit: Probably leave the third hand holding the pads to the rim, secure everything and take off the third hand. The slack in the system will likely get you close.
I have the ParkTool versions of both of those tools! Plus the ParkTool BT-5 which allow a more solid clamping action
. The problem that I'm having is after I get the pads positioned in what I believe is a good position in relation the rim of the wheel, tightening the 10mm nut that secures the post of the brake pad to the brake arm tends to "pitch" the pad out of the desired position. On the right side, it "pitches" down, on the left side, up! Very frustrating
. Even if I place the bit holder of a 4-in-1 screwdriver over the outside of the post in an attempt to keep the pad aligned, the pad become misaligned.
I've been worrying about getting toe-in but now I'm just trying to get reasonable alignment. I'm going to try the rubber band spacer on the rear of the pad.
I do like the fixed-length straddle cable on the 960s if only for the sleek look
. I'm not sure of what is meant by "link wires" ? Once I can get the pads positioned properly, I think I can get the rest of the set up squared away using my 4th hand tool. I'm thinking that I should set the barrel adjusters to near their "shortest" position. That should allow me to lengthen the housing/shorten the cable to compensate for pad seating and/or cable stretch.
Thanks for the tips! I'll attack the problem again tomorrow! I'm anticipating replies that suggest upgrading the brakes to V-brakes or maybe center pulls (it may be a solution in the end) but I'd like to retain the OEM configuration if possible on this bike. The major short coming of the Dia-Compe 960 seems to be that (when viewed from the side) it lacks a proper "pitch" adjustment, has minimal "yaw" adjustment BUT a full 360 degrees of "roll" which, in this case, is almost worthless!