Originally Posted by
Bat56
There IS a problem. There is a host of problems. It is true that you can do what you want, but if you came here for advice you should get it, rather than getting sunshine blown up your skirt. If you were undertaking the project to practice painting, that is one thing. But if you are serious about this project you should be properly advised.
You said the bike is aluminum and then you said it is steel, which is it.
You said you grew up riding the bike, does it still fit you.
You are about to put $100 of paint on a zero dollar frame.
Is the bottom bracket standard
Is the head tube standard
What is the quality of the drop outs, are you going to crush them when you crank down on a track nut
If you take the advice that this frame is no problem, and then you paint it, and then you try to put the headset back in, or upgrade the headset, you might find that the head tube is ovalized, or maybe you will rip it open when you press the new headset in.
What you say about components does not apply here. We are not talking about components, we are talking about the frame. However, it would be very hard to argue that cheap components (we know what this means) can equal the quality of higher-priced components.
If you continue down this road, the only thing you are going to "enjoy" is throwing good money after bad.
To answer a few of the points you made:
1. I thought the bike was aluminum until I decided to do a Rockwell hardness test on it to find out how stiff the frame is. Having gotten a number that is representative of steel I classified it as a steel bike.
2. I've done my due diligence in terms of inspecting the bike. As a graduated engineer, I've gone over all the aspects of the bike in detail. The bottom bracket housing is a standard 68*117. The headset is in good shape, although I have replaced the bearings just for solidarity. The dropouts are semi horizontal and show no signs of serious wear.
3. The frame is a component of the bike. It's integrity is of issue. It is a low end frame however it is well made and is structurally solid. I'm in no way saying that cheap components will be of the same quality as high end components. I am saying that low end components are not representative of being unusable or mechanically unsound.
4. If the rear hub is properly spaced, and then the reaction of forces from the axel bolts on the frame will be equal and negate each other. The only issue would be interface stress on the sides of the dropouts. Compressive ssive strength of steel (or Even aluminum if I am not being consistent). Is much higher than can be cracked by means of hand tools. Thus cracking the frame from using track bolts would be a result of improper installation of the read wheel.
Not to sound rude or pretentious(I honestly don't mean to be. I I think these forums are riden with people who like to be disruptive rather than helpful. I therefor I appreciate any constructive feedback and try not to be part of the problem) , but what is your point in saying that I will be throwing money away in this project?