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Must I keep welding these?

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Old 03-05-24, 11:45 PM
  #26  
Duragrouch
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
No help to anybody here but fun - My Peugeot UO-8 that started my journey on road bikes in 1967 died on a car door 25 years later. The plain steel seatpin got tossed in a box. Then I realized I was getting tired of fussing with my Campy bolt which 1) was lousy with the brake cable hanger I used for my Mooney's cantis and 2) over time broke because of the poor fit with that hanger. "Duh! I've the right pin! Pulled it out, cut it to size and used it for the next 30 years. Now honorably retired.
Necessity is the mother of redemption.
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Old 03-06-24, 05:54 AM
  #27  
grumpus
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
If it was notched on both sides you wouldn't be able to turn the nut to tighten it.
I meant the lug was notched on both sides, so you could put the bolt in from either side.
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Old 03-06-24, 06:55 AM
  #28  
Trakhak
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Originally Posted by grumpus
I meant the lug was notched on both sides, so you could put the bolt in from either side.
I don't recall that ever being the case. The only advantage would be that you could turn the bolt around if you had damaged the left-side keyhole by inadvertently attempting to turn that side of the bolt.

Then you'd have to remember that you had turned the bolt around or else you'd strip the right side, too, the next time you had to tighten or loosen the bolt.

I remember encountering my first keyless binder bolt and thinking they should all have been keyless all along.
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Old 03-06-24, 07:17 AM
  #29  
bboy314
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Originally Posted by grumpus
I meant the lug was notched on both sides, so you could put the bolt in from either side.
I’ve seen many frames that are notched on both sides, usually low end road bikes and 3 speeds. And quite often one side has already been carved out from someone turning the wrench on the wrong side.
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