Maelochs

if you got a 55-cm frame, judging from the geometry numbers i saw from earlier investigations, you have like a 575 top tube? (As someone said, apparently LeMonds are long and low by design.) It looks like you are maxed on spacer stack, but you have all kinds of stem options.
This is really where it is at.

Use whatever approximation method to set initial seat height (Heel on pedal with leg fully extended (down and forward, not bottom dead center) is a decent starting spot) and set the seat height.

First you want to stand the bike next to something solid, about waist high---I use the washer and dryer. Put something like a milk crate or bucket on one side (Obviously not the washer/dryer side) and sit on the bike, holding yourself up by standing one foot on the milk crate (or bucket, or small, very obedient child or pet .... your choice.) The ball of your foot should fall easily on the middle of the pedal. Rotate the pedals. At some point you should feel naturally comfortable all through the pedal process. Move the seat back and forward a little bit and try again. You might have to make minute altitude adjustments (down as you go back further) but don't stress .... after riding a while you will likely modify everything slightly.

As @WhyFi states, seat to BB position is paramount. This is where you get that balance between comfort and power while avoiding damage.

Once this is set, you shouldn't need to mess with it much ....

Once you have the seat pretty much in place, swing your body forward into approximately your preferred riding position. Don't get overly optimistic based on what the pros do ... most people are much more comfortable riding more upright---but do whatever you think will work for you. When you have the lean---and hopefully your core muscles can support you at least briefly in that position, or you are going to pay once you do some miles---then let your arms swing naturally down and forward. See where your hands land relative to the bar----you might not even be touching the bar, but notice are they an inch above or behind or where, relative to the bar. Wherever your hands fall is pretty much where you want the hoods to be .... depends on whether you like to ride the hooks or the hoods or half on the hoods or whatever, but you will want the bars to meet your hands, not your hands to reach for the bars.

Then start playing around with a ruler and protractor .... stems come in pretty much a range from zero degrees to six or seven, to ten on up to about 17 degrees as I recall--and they are reversible. The angle is measured off the steerer, not off the horizon, so a zero stem is actually aiming up. What you have on the bike is probably a minus (plus) six or seven---and most likely you can flip it over and gain a little height and do a test fit for free. Remember that when the stem is parallel to the horizon--like a minus seven--it is as far from the seat as possible. Raising it up shortens the reach, if only marginally.

Or whatever. You can set up the bike however you like. Just, to me, you got a really nice machine at a dream price (supposing there isn't some hidden damage) and I'd hate to see you not get max enjoyment from it.

Also, the longer we can get you to stick around, the more snarky comments we can make.

RoadWearier

You are spot on. I have pretty short legs and a long torso. So maybe it will work time will tell. Maybe I'll ride after Tennessee beats Alabama today

genejockey 

Hey, if that's the case, and it's a Lemond with a long top tube relative to the seat tube, you should be good to go!

Myself, I'm the opposite - long legs, short torso - but I also have long arms so apart from having a long enough seatpost, I fit a standard bike from 57-59cm CtC pretty well.

RoadWearier

It's not too small. You are mistaken. And responding to the double post. So...wrong and and stupid. Bad combo. Go back to sleep.

Maelochs

I am a basketball on giraffe limbs. No seat tube is long enough, no top tube is short enough. And still I make it work. @RoadWearier is in fine shape.

fishboat

The measurement (as I mentioned earlier) is to the center of the top tube. You have a 55cm frame. I believe the bike is a 2004 (they only made this model in 2003 & 2004), though the geometry on Lemond bikes didn't change much, or at all, in most cases through the Trek-owned years. Your effective top tube is 56.5cm..is in the neighborhood for a 5'10" guy. (a 56cm square frame, seat tube and top tube of 56cm, is about right for 5'10"-5'11").

Lemond frames are said to be long, but this often is exaggerated...or at least glossed over & generalized. In the smaller sizes they can be a bit long..as they get larger they have pretty typical seat tube vs top tube lengths. The graphic below is from the 2004 Lemond tech manual for the Arrivee model(the numbers are virtually or exactly the same for all the higher end steel/titanium road bike models):



The 2003 tech manual has some discussion of Lemond's philosophy with respect to fit, starts on page 31 I think:
https://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fis...nualLemond.pdf

RoadWearier

Thanks for the info. The diagrams I have seen measure from mid crank to seat post insert. Not top tube.

I realize that's a mountain bike, but I've seen similar diagrams for road bikes

According to your pdf, a 55cm would be for someone who is 6ft. That is pretty inconsistent with most of the info online

Carbonfiberboy 

Well . . ..maybe the pic was just taken at a bad angle. And I'm massively in favor of young women taking up cycling. In any case, sorry for your bad into to BF.

My bike fit primer is here: https://www.bikeforums.net/21296948-post3.html
That'll get you plenty close enough to see if the bike will work for you. In fact it might be all you need to do before riding it for the first few hundred miles. Or possibly all you need to do.

tomato coupe

Let's talk about that gearing instead ...

genejockey 

CTC is more standard for bikes with level top tubes, because different bikes have different heights of seat collars, though some manufacturers - including, apparently, Lemond - use CTT. And nowadays with sloping top tubes both are nearly meaningless.

RoadWearier

What's wrong with the gearing?

RoadWearier

Good stuff.makes sense that fine tuning seat fore/aft can impact a lot. I'll take a closer look after the game. I'll go on a short 10 mile ride tomorrow and see how it feels before I do anythingDunno if you saw, but the previous owner changed both the stem and put on narrower handlebars as he felt too spread out. "Like Superman" was the term used.

tomato coupe

I didn't say there was anything wrong with the gearing.

RoadWearier

You wanted to talk about the gearing. Usually that implies something amiss. Sorry if I misunderstood

shelbyfv

You have an unpleasant attitude for someone who needs so much help. Nevertheless, let us know how your first group ride goes on Monday..

shelbyfv

Suck Creek, Sand Mountain and Burkhalter Gap. The old 3 State 3 Mtn course will let you know if the gearing works for you.

RoadWearier

You have done nothing but give me crap about my posts and I have an unpleasant attitude. Uh ok. Here's a thought. Don't chime in on my posts and you don't have to worry about my unpleasant attitude. Go troll someone else. Thanks in advance

Maelochs

Gearing is pretty normal for a race /road bike back in the day .... a little high for most riders and a lot of terrain.

RoadWearier

It may well be. Can't be any worse than riding 35 miles with the group on a single speed. That was rough. I also can tell if I want to ride a wider tire Immay have a problem

Koyote

I have a LeMond from the same year -- 2004. Same gearing: 53-39 cranks, 12-25 cassette. When I got into big climbing events, I went nuts and put a 12-27 cassette on it.

Symox

Unpainted titanium and clean welds. mmmmmmm mmmmmmm goodness

looks great

RoadWearier

It's a purty bike for sure. In my newbie ignorance that's what it came down to. I could have gotten a slightly newer carbon fiber bike with roughly similar components (well ok 105) but I liked that this was different from all of the power ranger graphic laden carbon fiber bikes. And it's metal and as everyone knows, METAL Rulez!!

Shadco 

Pro tip

Don’t respond to negative nellies, they post to get a rise and you give it to them.

.

RoadWearier

Yes. Good advice. It's a shame there are some douchoids on here because some of this advice is actually good.

Fwiw I just finished a 36 mile ride without pain or discomfort so I guess I'd take the negative comments with zero grains of salt

WhyFi

Like stand-over clearance, a problem-free 36 mile is a nice start, but doesn't necessarily tell you much.