Did my first Sprint today
#51
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What’s the opinion on Bikes Direct? I found a bike about 2 hours away that is one of their brands, Motobecane Nemesis. It’s advertised as a tri bike. The listing is for a model a few years old and $350. I checked Bikes Direct and it looks like their 2024 model has a more tri style frame. Looks like a new one is $924. Definitely would need to get it assembled at REI or LBS. Any opinions on this bike?
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products...hlon-bikes.htm
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products...hlon-bikes.htm
#52
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Those BD bikes are fine, from my experience. My main trainer is a BD Motobecane Record. High quality aluminum frame, very well made. But, I have greatly modified it. The entire bike was upgraded, only the frame remains. It's comfortable and flies. That Nemesis looks to be a nice bike. 105 rear shifter and solid entry level aluminum wheels. You can always upgrade the wheels and such. Good start.
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Those BD bikes are fine, from my experience. My main trainer is a BD Motobecane Record. High quality aluminum frame, very well made. But, I have greatly modified it. The entire bike was upgraded, only the frame remains. It's comfortable and flies. That Nemesis looks to be a nice bike. 105 rear shifter and solid entry level aluminum wheels. You can always upgrade the wheels and such. Good start.
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#54
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TX, I like to look at the top tube length to determine the correct size. My BD bike is a 56 and I'm 5'8. It's too big! But I modified it with a very small stem and short reach bars, and it works well. Keep in mind that a TT bike puts you "forward", leaning over the bars (at least more so than a road bike.) If I'm in your shoes, I'm using the BD sizing chart and then making whatever modifications are needed to make it fit well. A proper length stem works wonders, and it's a cheap and easy swap.
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I don’t think I am reading the BD sizing chart correctly. When I look in t/t effective, it says 561/22.1. What do those numbers translate to?
Also, starting to second guess myself and starting to lean towards a road bike with aero bars installed on it. If I do go the road bike route, is there any specific frame design I should look for? I guess the real question is what road bike frame would lend to getting closest to being on my elbows in the aero bars instead of being on my forearms?
Also, starting to second guess myself and starting to lean towards a road bike with aero bars installed on it. If I do go the road bike route, is there any specific frame design I should look for? I guess the real question is what road bike frame would lend to getting closest to being on my elbows in the aero bars instead of being on my forearms?
#56
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I am far from an expert in the matter but of the road bikes I've seen, some Kestrels have a pretty aggressive angle. The other thing you might want is the shortest crank arms you can find, which tend to be around 165. The point being when you drop down on the aero bars, you won't be closing up your hip angle too much. That reduces your leverage and impinges on your breathing. When I was fitted for my road bike, the fitter suggested 155mm arms for a road bike and 145mm for my TT bike. I didn't go that radical because I am more of a grinder than a spinner. You'll have to figure out which you prefer. A slower cadence where you put more power in, or a faster cadence with less power.
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I don’t think I am reading the BD sizing chart correctly. When I look in t/t effective, it says 561/22.1. What do those numbers translate to?
Also, starting to second guess myself and starting to lean towards a road bike with aero bars installed on it. If I do go the road bike route, is there any specific frame design I should look for? I guess the real question is what road bike frame would lend to getting closest to being on my elbows in the aero bars instead of being on my forearms?
Also, starting to second guess myself and starting to lean towards a road bike with aero bars installed on it. If I do go the road bike route, is there any specific frame design I should look for? I guess the real question is what road bike frame would lend to getting closest to being on my elbows in the aero bars instead of being on my forearms?
561/22.1 likely means that the TT is 56 cm or 22.1 inches from the center of the steerer tube to the center of the seat tube. In other words, it's basically a 56 cm frame. Each bike manufacturer has their own distinctions concerning how they measure size, but most fall within a measuring system that relies a little heavier on the length of the TT. Pinarello is an exception, but you're not going to buy a Pinarello, correct? So, if a road bike has a 56 cm TT, then you have a good idea that it's about "56" frame. Some will argue this point, but I find that it's a fairly accurate method. Go to a local bike shop this weekend. Get on different size bikes. See what fits best (what you're most comfy on.) And then you'll know the size.
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I am far from an expert in the matter but of the road bikes I've seen, some Kestrels have a pretty aggressive angle. The other thing you might want is the shortest crank arms you can find, which tend to be around 165. The point being when you drop down on the aero bars, you won't be closing up your hip angle too much. That reduces your leverage and impinges on your breathing. When I was fitted for my road bike, the fitter suggested 155mm arms for a road bike and 145mm for my TT bike. I didn't go that radical because I am more of a grinder than a spinner. You'll have to figure out which you prefer. A slower cadence where you put more power in, or a faster cadence with less power.
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And please, listen to Jen......get in the pool!!! I've really focused on the swim and my fitness has improved dramatically!
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I am headed out of town this weekend for a business trip. I think that when I get back, if this bike is still available, I may go check it out.
Fuji Sportif 1.5
Frame: Fuji A2-SL aluminum
Fork: Fuji FC-770 carbon
Rims/Wheels: Vera Corsa
Hubs: See Rims/Wheels
Tires: Vera Helios, 700 x 25
Crankset: Fuji, aluminum
Chainrings: 50/34
Front Derailleur: Shimano 2300
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Sora
Rear Cogs SRAM 820, 8-speed: 11-32
Shifters: Shimano 2300
Handlebars: Oval 300S
Tape/Grips: Oval 300 suede-padded tape
Stem: Oval 313
Brake Levers: Shimano
Brakes: Dual-pivot
Pedals: Platform
Saddle: Oval R300
Seatpost: Oval 300
Fuji Sportif 1.5
Frame: Fuji A2-SL aluminum
Fork: Fuji FC-770 carbon
Rims/Wheels: Vera Corsa
Hubs: See Rims/Wheels
Tires: Vera Helios, 700 x 25
Crankset: Fuji, aluminum
Chainrings: 50/34
Front Derailleur: Shimano 2300
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Sora
Rear Cogs SRAM 820, 8-speed: 11-32
Shifters: Shimano 2300
Handlebars: Oval 300S
Tape/Grips: Oval 300 suede-padded tape
Stem: Oval 313
Brake Levers: Shimano
Brakes: Dual-pivot
Pedals: Platform
Saddle: Oval R300
Seatpost: Oval 300
#61
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I think Jen is correct about the 165's. In fact, I've decided to go with 165's on my TT build. But with that said, I really don't think it will matter in the long run. I think I really like this sport and want to compete at a higher level. Hence my decision to build a dedicated TT bike. And I may as well get the specs correct now, right? But you're testing the waters now and can always trade things out down the road if you decide to stick with this.
And please, listen to Jen......get in the pool!!! I've really focused on the swim and my fitness has improved dramatically!
And please, listen to Jen......get in the pool!!! I've really focused on the swim and my fitness has improved dramatically!
#62
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That's a little older bike but it will serve you just fine for a while until you decide if this is something you really want to spend time and money to do. That all depends on how it fits and the price. Being an older bike, I would not pay more than a couple hundred for it. My first "serious" bike was very similar to that and I well overpaid for it at the time.
As for the swim, I suggest it not so much for the training and fitness, which is fantastic all by itself. But to get comfortable in that portion of the event. I have not been big to promote pool swimming. That's great and all, but the open water swim with a dozen other people around you is vastly different. You need to get super comfortable in water that's not always clear, no lane markers, no walls to push off and people slapping your feet or kicking your head. It can be very unsettling at first. In my experience, most people who start but DNF a triathlon lose it on the swim.
As for the swim, I suggest it not so much for the training and fitness, which is fantastic all by itself. But to get comfortable in that portion of the event. I have not been big to promote pool swimming. That's great and all, but the open water swim with a dozen other people around you is vastly different. You need to get super comfortable in water that's not always clear, no lane markers, no walls to push off and people slapping your feet or kicking your head. It can be very unsettling at first. In my experience, most people who start but DNF a triathlon lose it on the swim.
Last edited by VegasJen; 05-13-24 at 11:01 AM.
#63
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That's a little older bike but it will serve you just fine for a while until you decide if this is something you really want to spend time and money to do. That all depends on how it fits and the price. Being an older bike, I would not pay more than a couple hundred for it. My first "serious" bike was very similar to that and I well overpaid for it at the time.
As for the swim, I suggest it not so much for the training and fitness, which is fantastic all by itself. But to get comfortable in that portion of the event. I have not been big to promote pool swimming. That's great and all, but the open water swim with a dozen other people around you is vastly different. You need to get super comfortable in water that's not always clear, no lane markers, no walls to push off and people slapping your feet or kicking your head. It can be very unsettling at first. In my experience, most people who start but DNF a triathlon lose it on the swim.
As for the swim, I suggest it not so much for the training and fitness, which is fantastic all by itself. But to get comfortable in that portion of the event. I have not been big to promote pool swimming. That's great and all, but the open water swim with a dozen other people around you is vastly different. You need to get super comfortable in water that's not always clear, no lane markers, no walls to push off and people slapping your feet or kicking your head. It can be very unsettling at first. In my experience, most people who start but DNF a triathlon lose it on the swim.
The sprint I am planning to do in July is in some dark/murky water. So sounds like I should get a taste (hopefully not literally) of that type of swim. Side note, the sprint that is in my town, got canceled this past weekend because the small lake they swim in (same lake as IM Texas) had too high levels of bacteria in it. Sounds like the big storms we had recently dumped a bunch of crud into the lake.
#64
Senior Member
I would absolutely haggle. Not that it's not a good bike, only you will know that, but it is definitely an older frame. The frame itself is not the concern, just all the stuff associated with it. Those "brifters" are really not well supported by Shimano any more. I have similar ones on my Lexa and I cannot find replacement hoods anywhere. The 8 speed should be pretty much indestructible but it's still older and somewhat limits your options. Additionally, I notice it's only a two speed chain ring. That will be fine so long as you're not going to be doing any steep climbing, but a 50 tooth front chaingring will limit your max speed on any descents. So it's a good bike as-is, but you buy it, ride it for a little while and then you figure you want to upgrade this and upgrade that. How much money do you want to invest in upgrading a ~20 year old frame? Maybe see if you can get it down and just ride it as-is for now but keep an eye open for something a little newer with some higher end components on it.
Just as an example, I picked up this bike a few months ago for $160.
I hardly needed another bike, but I tripped over this deal and couldn't pass it up. It's a 2015 Synapse with a 2x10 Shimano 105 groupset and Shimano wheels. I may use it in a tri where there's more climbing involved, but not really sure just yet. The point being, the deals are out there if you're patient.
And yes, go swim out there in that murky water. Practice sighting. During your event, they'll have big, brightly colored buoys out there for markers, and from the shore, you'll think "those are easy to see." But when you get out there and your eyes are only a couple inches off the surface and the water is rolling and people are kicking, it will be very easy to lose sight and go off course. I can tell you now, even after more than a dozen triathlons, every time I swim, I swim at least an extra 100 yards because I end up swimming a zig-zag course. Not intentionally, it's just the nature of it. Get psychologically prepared to be disoriented and tired. Do that now and remember to stay calm and not panic. That's what I'm suggesting.
Just as an example, I picked up this bike a few months ago for $160.
I hardly needed another bike, but I tripped over this deal and couldn't pass it up. It's a 2015 Synapse with a 2x10 Shimano 105 groupset and Shimano wheels. I may use it in a tri where there's more climbing involved, but not really sure just yet. The point being, the deals are out there if you're patient.
And yes, go swim out there in that murky water. Practice sighting. During your event, they'll have big, brightly colored buoys out there for markers, and from the shore, you'll think "those are easy to see." But when you get out there and your eyes are only a couple inches off the surface and the water is rolling and people are kicking, it will be very easy to lose sight and go off course. I can tell you now, even after more than a dozen triathlons, every time I swim, I swim at least an extra 100 yards because I end up swimming a zig-zag course. Not intentionally, it's just the nature of it. Get psychologically prepared to be disoriented and tired. Do that now and remember to stay calm and not panic. That's what I'm suggesting.
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#65
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VegasJen Thanks for the advice. Saving me from buying a bad bike! I will go back on the lookout. The Nemesis bikes seem to be still available from the sellers, but they are about 2.5 hours away and I won't be able to get out that way for at least 10 days. The search continues. Thanks for all the advice everyone. Some of this stuff I had zero clue on or about. What am I looking for in a chain ring?
Last edited by TXRunner78; 05-13-24 at 02:39 PM.
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I am now officially registered for the sprint. Headed out of town this weekend and when I get back, getting my gym membership so I can start swimming in the mornings before work. I have my eye on another bike (Bianchi Nirone 7) and hoping to check it out next weekend if it's still available.