My first GP5000s....
#51
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Just finishing up my first season on GP5000's - about 3000 miles on them.
Right out of the gate, they were much faster than my "winter" Armadillo's. Swapped out after a winter of training and instantly set PB's on just about every segment of my local rides. The bike tire testing website claimed about 20+/- watts of savings, plus a few ounces per tire - and I instantly felt the difference and speeds were about 0.5-1 mph faster. They also grip and handle much better, even better than the Turbo's I rode the previous years.
Flats - I've had two, both from glass. I've also pulled a few shards of glass out of the tire before I got a flat.
My 80# son rides a set of 28mm GP's and he flatted from glass on his second ride.
So in my experience, they are prone to picking up glass. But I will get a new set next year... not bad enough to keep me from using them.
They were rotated once as the rear tire started to flatten out a bit. At the end of the month, at 3500 miles or so, I will retire them. They are about spent.
Right out of the gate, they were much faster than my "winter" Armadillo's. Swapped out after a winter of training and instantly set PB's on just about every segment of my local rides. The bike tire testing website claimed about 20+/- watts of savings, plus a few ounces per tire - and I instantly felt the difference and speeds were about 0.5-1 mph faster. They also grip and handle much better, even better than the Turbo's I rode the previous years.
Flats - I've had two, both from glass. I've also pulled a few shards of glass out of the tire before I got a flat.
My 80# son rides a set of 28mm GP's and he flatted from glass on his second ride.
So in my experience, they are prone to picking up glass. But I will get a new set next year... not bad enough to keep me from using them.
They were rotated once as the rear tire started to flatten out a bit. At the end of the month, at 3500 miles or so, I will retire them. They are about spent.
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#52
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Glass will puncture the vast majority of the tires, especially the high-end ones. Nothing much you can do aside from being grateful when you roll on glass and don't puncture.
#53
Just finishing up my first season on GP5000's - about 3000 miles on them.
Right out of the gate, they were much faster than my "winter" Armadillo's. Swapped out after a winter of training and instantly set PB's on just about every segment of my local rides. The bike tire testing website claimed about 20+/- watts of savings, plus a few ounces per tire - and I instantly felt the difference and speeds were about 0.5-1 mph faster. They also grip and handle much better, even better than the Turbo's I rode the previous years.
Right out of the gate, they were much faster than my "winter" Armadillo's. Swapped out after a winter of training and instantly set PB's on just about every segment of my local rides. The bike tire testing website claimed about 20+/- watts of savings, plus a few ounces per tire - and I instantly felt the difference and speeds were about 0.5-1 mph faster. They also grip and handle much better, even better than the Turbo's I rode the previous years.
#54
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So the GP’s are just flat faster, GP’s with wheels are just flat faster…
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#55
Well I took my aero-wheels with the gp5000s off my bike a few days ago after one last ride on them before the weather goes down the tubes for winter. I am going to build up a bike specific to TT events that will use them. Next spring I may get another pair to use on the regular non-aero wheels my road bike came with, I have all winter to think about it.
#56
Senior Member
Tires really should be rotated to the back, or off the bike. A squared off tire is not your friend when it comes to steering. I'd be wary of going on a real ride with an old rear tire mounted on the front.
My GP4k and GP5k felt/feel faster than the Rubinos they replaced. Maybe a slight edge over the entry level UltraSport, too. That said, I've felt that the UltraSports and Rubinos often feel a bit stickier on technical descents - of course, the direct comparison was with a worn-in, draggier Rubino or UltraSport, compared to a factory fresh GP (still with a bit of factory smoothness).
My GP4k and GP5k felt/feel faster than the Rubinos they replaced. Maybe a slight edge over the entry level UltraSport, too. That said, I've felt that the UltraSports and Rubinos often feel a bit stickier on technical descents - of course, the direct comparison was with a worn-in, draggier Rubino or UltraSport, compared to a factory fresh GP (still with a bit of factory smoothness).
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#60
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700x28 front and rear. I weigh 185#'s & run 90+/- in both.
Call me old school, but for whatever reason, I like the feel of a pumped up road tire vs a squishy feeling lower PSI. Just my preference.
Call me old school, but for whatever reason, I like the feel of a pumped up road tire vs a squishy feeling lower PSI. Just my preference.
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#64
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Are you sure you're not looking at a 5000 TL or 5000 TR, the tubeless versions? I don' have the box in front of me, but the standard 5000 goes to 125psi in 23mm and 25mm versions, and 105psi in 28mm and higher, IIRC.
#65
#66
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Tubeless tires often have lower max PSI figures than tubed tires - that's kind of their reason for existing. If you're comfortable at 65-70 PSI, then you should be on a tubeless tire as running that pressure tubed is more likely to cause a pinch flat. If you're more comfortable riding at 80 PSI or higher, you're more likely to want to stick with a tubed setup for safety reasons (especially if it's a hookless setup), as well as practical reasons (too-high pressure can push sealant out of the tire, requiring the rider to top up more frequently than otherwise).
All to say, can't compare GP5000 with GP5000 TR, as they fit different rider profiles.
All to say, can't compare GP5000 with GP5000 TR, as they fit different rider profiles.
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#67
Tubeless tires often have lower max PSI figures than tubed tires - that's kind of their reason for existing. If you're comfortable at 65-70 PSI, then you should be on a tubeless tire as running that pressure tubed is more likely to cause a pinch flat. If you're more comfortable riding at 80 PSI or higher, you're more likely to want to stick with a tubed setup for safety reasons (especially if it's a hookless setup), as well as practical reasons (too-high pressure can push sealant out of the tire, requiring the rider to top up more frequently than otherwise).
All to say, can't compare GP5000 with GP5000 TR, as they fit different rider profiles.
All to say, can't compare GP5000 with GP5000 TR, as they fit different rider profiles.
#68
[QUOTE=Paradox77;23054167]I think I should have mentioned I am running these tires but with tubes. So does that mean even though the tire itself state 73 max, I can pump it higher? I only pump it to 70s because it had that limit./QUOTE]
A smart thing for your to research. I don't have any tubeless bikes and never plan to, but a friend of mine who does just had his front tire come off it's rim because some bozo mechanic at a bike shop he took it to fitted non-TR tires to the bike with no tubes in them instead of the TR tires they should have put on, so luckily my friend was not barreling down a fast hill when it came off, but something like that could happen in such a mix-up and it could kill someone, so it is not a place for guesswork. Look at what you have rims and tires and know what they are then go read what the manufacturer's websites and instructions tell you to do and do it.
A smart thing for your to research. I don't have any tubeless bikes and never plan to, but a friend of mine who does just had his front tire come off it's rim because some bozo mechanic at a bike shop he took it to fitted non-TR tires to the bike with no tubes in them instead of the TR tires they should have put on, so luckily my friend was not barreling down a fast hill when it came off, but something like that could happen in such a mix-up and it could kill someone, so it is not a place for guesswork. Look at what you have rims and tires and know what they are then go read what the manufacturer's websites and instructions tell you to do and do it.
#69
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Stick to the max. Hookless rims have max limits- 73/75/80...depends on tire size too but 75 is a safe max. Tires have max limits too. I'm 175 and no tire I use calls for even 70 PSI so I use my 55-60. I use hooked and hookless rims with the ZIPP 303 Firecrest hookless being on my primary bike. I use 55-60 PSI on that...the rim has a 73 or 75 max...not sure about the tires. Make sure your tire pump is accurate enough. I had one pump that was way off so I was using 75 PSI when it was supposed to be 65. I knew it felt a bit harsh on those 30mm tires but only realized the inaccuracy when I used my other pump and a tire gauge.
#70
It's carbon dontcha know.
I'm at 80/85 on 25mm tyres tubeless and weigh ~170ish
Here's a good site to check for a suggested starting point on pressures.
https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure