Vintage Raleigh Question
#51
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the informative reply. As a novice, I'm trying to figure out if investing 100 or so into a 1969 Raleigh is foolish, or if I should just wait and try to find an (earlier) model in better condition. Or, are there other brands I should consider?
#52
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Location: Port Dover Ontario Canada
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Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others
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I'm 5'11" with a 32 inseam and find a 23" Raleigh frame perfect. All are good bikes, but the 5sp Sprite with 27" wheels in root beer is hard to beat!
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
#53
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I found the correct size for me and a color I like, but the rear fender I missing one rods that secure it. Can this be fixed?
#54
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Thread Starter
I found the correct size for me and a color I like, but the rear fender is missing one of the rods that secure it. Can this be fixed?
#56
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Hard to see in the photo, but I think I see the fender stay still there. Looks like the welds broke. If the joints were cleaned to bare metal, you could use JB Weld epoxy to repair it.
#57
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I've used epoxy on things before and felt like it never worked. If epoxy were out of the question, could another stay be used?
#58
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There's not a lot of stress on that joint. It's rare to see a loose stay on Raleigh fenders. I'll guess it wasn't welded properly in the first place.
I would first try cleaning off the joint surfaces to bare metal. Maybe even roughing up the surface a bit and glue it with JB Weld. I think it would hold. But if it failed, I'd drill and bolt it on with small, round head screws or rivets. Something not too noticeable and then I'd paint them.
I would first try cleaning off the joint surfaces to bare metal. Maybe even roughing up the surface a bit and glue it with JB Weld. I think it would hold. But if it failed, I'd drill and bolt it on with small, round head screws or rivets. Something not too noticeable and then I'd paint them.
#59
Still learning
In looking at the photo more closely, I'd be concerned with the condition of the rims and spokes. Surface rust or pitted rust. If the latter, you'll be spending more on replacements than you spent on the bike.
If you own it already, enjoy and ignore the rest of this post.
The trusty rusty must be a 23" frame, kinda big.
This one appears to need very little work:
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bik/5069229790.html
If you own it already, enjoy and ignore the rest of this post.
The trusty rusty must be a 23" frame, kinda big.
This one appears to need very little work:
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bik/5069229790.html
Last edited by oddjob2; 06-18-15 at 09:21 AM.
#61
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Oddjob, it's surface rust, and much cleaner than another one I was eyeing! Thanks for the link. The green is nice, but I prefer the black, and it's been very hard for me to find a 23"
#62
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That's the style of the sprocket. The one on the left is the older style. The one on the right is 1974 on. Not important, but it's one of those things where I have a preference.