RiddleOfSteel

^^^^^ Beautiful! Love that red, and the matching rims.

I've recently completed a parts transfer. One Trek to another. 7800 Dura-Ace on my '16 Emonda ALR to my '88 560 that I didn't want to sell (and conveniently came up with excuses as to why I shouldn't, which were valid! I swear). The seatpost binder bolts bottomed out on each other while giving the illusion of a tightly clamped seatpost, and that caused slipping when riding. Not cool! I also had a random flat for no reason (checked everything) just after that maiden commute, necessitating my rescue of the bike last night. Fixed it last night/this morning and rode it nearly 20 miles today. Fantastic!! It will be appearing in another thread or two.

My next task is to complete my super modern tech Cannondale CAAD10 Disc and build my '85 ST400 up for one of my brothers. Oh, and transfer parts/build up my newly-acquired '90 ST400 frameset. Much to do!

ollo_ollo

Thanks ROS. Rear wheel was a nice find. Near new, Mavic Helium crash survivor. Front is a Chorus hub laced to an Ambrosio Excellence rim. Somehow the red anodizing was a perfect match. Don

noglider 

I put a mirror on my wife's handlebar on our tandem. I'd like her to watch for traffic with me, as I can use the help.

I started to dismantle my Super Course. The freewheel has come apart for the second time. I tested to see if I can fit the new rear wheel in the frame, and I can't. I'm not sure what I'll do. I might take it to a frame builder for his opinion.

I also started replacing the cranks on my McLean, and I couldn't find a pedal wrench. I'm also missing a bunch of combination wrenches. I really have got to straighten up my workshop. It has become unmanageable.

2cam16

Got rid of my red Hard Rock and transferred most of its LX parts over to this green one. Put on a fat pair of Hookworms. We'll see how it turns out:

IMG_4515 by 2cam16, on Flickr

rjhammett

I just finished up a rebuild of this early '90s Novara Randonee. I bought it for my wife but it is too big for her so I have listed it for sale.

SJX426 

Continue from post #930 . Received the spacers from Wheels Manufacture. Guess what. the so called spacers for BB and hubs ID was too small for Campagnolo Record Sealed BB! Clamped it in a vice and ran a Dremel stone around it a couple of times until it fit. Put it on the bike to specs and now the inside ring does not rub the chain stay. Used 1.5mm but could have gotten by with 1mm.

Next is to clean up a chain, make sure it is the right length and test it out.

ryansu

That is a sweet build, in the midst of rebuilding my 78 Grand Touring, I don't think it will come anywhere near 20 lbs

ryansu

I really like the look of those hookworms and considered them for a build, interested to hear how they ride

ollo_ollo

Ryansu:

I was looking for one like yours(love the Nervex lugs), when this came along, didn't even know about them.

This 85 is my lightest steel frame. Fillet brazed, 21"size, minus fork, is just 3.8 pounds and the wheels are pretty light too, although I didn't weigh them separately. While you have yours apart, you should weigh the bare frame. Don

SamSpade1941 

I am piddling with this.... right now ....



Lemond Zurich

2cam16

These were hand me downs from my buddy and i did ride his bike that had them on, once. I liked them. Comfy yet grippy. Of course one ride isn't enough for a review. I'll let you know when I finish and ride it a few times.

Pompiere

I overhauled my son's Bridgestone MB-2. 3 years of sitting outside in the bike rack at college had taken a toll, so bearings got new grease, new shift levers to replace a cracked one, new brake pads, and fenders realigned. He has a place with sheltered storage now, so it should be good until graduation. I tried fitting larger fenders to accommodate fatter tires for winter, but there wasn't enough clearance under the fork for both the tire and fender.

randyjawa 

Ride tuning my Cyclops...


and trying to upgrade my Legnano but having issues with the Gran Sport rear derailleur...

Johno59

Your top pulley looks very close to the rear sprockets.

SJX426 

@ryansu - I debated about the Hookworms and opted for the Panaracer Uff Da 2.3. I have several thousand on them and finally took them off. They worked but are heavy. I think I only got one flat in 2K miles. They are the largest size that will fit under a fender.


Truck with packw, on Flickr

PIcks to go with post #938

P1010329, on Flickr

P1010330, on Flickr

P1010331, on Flickr

P1010333, on Flickr

P1010334, on Flickr

P1010335, on Flickr

P1010336, on Flickr
After adding 1.5mm spacer on the BB

P1010338, on Flickr

Conversion of the DA cassette spacers to Wheels Mfg spacers to accommodate the Campagnolo shifting.

P1010339, on Flickr

Johno59

What in the wide wide wide wide world of whitworth were they thinking when they put a bolt securing the chainstay inside of the chainwheel? It had a flat crown to avoid the crank spider arms and an old-school lock washer. The lock-washer by its nature was proud of the oil bath casing so the 11/37.5 inch BSW whatever spanner could not get any purchase.


The drive side chain-stay has to be removed to get the crank off! The 'Little Old Oil Bath' captures the chain-ring drive side crank assembly and as such has to removed for a BB crank inspection.


The bolt is shown here and you can see how the chain-stay arm is brazed to the Oil Bath Housing.


Weird!


The threaded hole immediately adjacent to the BB is the sucker!

Sir_Name 

I installed a dropper seatpost on the Rockhopper today along with C&V Dia Compe TT cable guides and Ti-Stick seatpost binder bolt, both purple ano. Looking forward to a ride this weekend.

Drillium Dude 

I expect the crank is supposed to come off first before tackling the chaincase removal. Or not.

DD

Johno59

The chain oil bath/cover housing traps the one piece drive crank ie. you can't move the piece from where it sits in the chain oil bath/cover assembly. The rings bottom teeth are located below the lip of the cover's opening thus preventing the whole assembly to slide off the axle and away. It just occurred to me, you're supposed to remove the bottom bracket out thru the opposite adjustable side. The absence of the crank axle - once it has been withdrawn out the other side - allows move freedom to manoeuvre the crank assembly to release the nut or perhaps work the whole lot out thru the opening in the chain oil bath housing thereby allowing you to change the crank or the chain without partially disassembling the bicycle's frame.

SJX426 

@Johno59 - LOL no service manual!? Congrats! Sometimes challenges can be very rewarding after the fact!

Continuation from #947
When I last put the chain on, it just didn't look right at the RD. Today I examined the RD assembly and determined I put it together wrong! It tooks some effort but it is assembled correctly now. I installed on the frame and used the chain that I thought was too long. Look great! Shifts well hanging from the ceiling! Bottle cages are next and some temporary HB wrap to check out the Ergo location and test run. Pedals of course.

The rear needs to be dished but that can wait as there is enough clearance. I want to make sure this is going to work before committing all the way.

SJX426 

From #952
Today I adjusted the brake pads, put some used ugly splash bar tape on and took it for a two block test ride. It works. The levers feel too low so I may bring them up a bit. I am pleased with the shifting, though I think some minor adjustment might make it perfect.

seedsbelize 

As I approach my 66th birthday, I'm finding I have to fiddle with fit more than I used to. I ride a 24" 78 Trek 930 and a 62cm 92 Paramount PDG 7, for my summer bikes. I'm currently fine tuning both, for better comfort.

RiddleOfSteel

My '74 Paramount is getting a "mild" change to it's brake (on the drop bar) and shifter (on the down tube) arrangement. Exchanged the the 25.4mm SR stem and classic drop bar arrangement for a 26.0mm stem fitted with Soma Highway One bars. Shifters are now 7700-era Dura-Ace STIs, so still 9-speeds out back. The front shifter is a double that needs to shift a triple, so a clever little piece(s) of machined aluminum will be enabling the use of a triple. Should be fun. And I'll update my Paramount thread--a thread in which I also need to re-add all the pictures as they magically disappeared.

Johno59

Finally got all the hand paint off. As always the remnants of original lead-based paint under the modern paints are the toughest to remove. In my experience nothing but sweat and elbow grease seems to get them to let go where they've sat for 70 odd years.


Before the invention of the hub gear Sunbeams had a gearbox located around the BB. The famous 'Little Oil Bath' was thus necessary to lubricate the gear box and the chain as well. This model post-dates that era but I'm wondering if the chamber, shown here to the left of the BB housing, is a left-over from the redundant gear-box design. Perhaps this chamber enabled oil to be pushed around by the chain passing thru the oil bath to flow via this chamber and lubricate the now missing gearbox.


The famous "Little Oil Bath" appears to be two soldered together tin stampings. It is incredibly thin sheet metal. The 'new moon' visible on the LHS of the chain-ring opening was the feature that required the removal of the axle (out the other way) before I could remove the crank.

ascherer