Is this the best explanation of chain stretch ever?
#51
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As I have posted before, I get approx 8000 miles out of a chain doing what I said. However I do not ride in salt and snow. I stay inside and keep warm.
Last edited by rydabent; 01-10-22 at 01:37 PM.
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I built up a new bike 1 year ago - 11 spd 105 level components with a Shimano chain. At 5k miles I checked it after experiencing some skipping. Both sides of the Park chain checker fell through like a golf ball in the ocean (sorry, best analogy I could think of). When comparing to the new chain to get the right number of links... holy crap the old chain was a lot longer.
That's 5k miles, living in the PNW, riding in all weather. I wipe my chain down and lube it, particularly after rainy rides. No other cleaning.
I just did a 130 mile ride with the new chain, and no skipping. Downshifts were a little delayed but I'm hoping I can adjust that out without screwing up the upshifts. Next time I'll check around 2k and see where things are.
That's 5k miles, living in the PNW, riding in all weather. I wipe my chain down and lube it, particularly after rainy rides. No other cleaning.
I just did a 130 mile ride with the new chain, and no skipping. Downshifts were a little delayed but I'm hoping I can adjust that out without screwing up the upshifts. Next time I'll check around 2k and see where things are.
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Even if he meant there is no magic chain lube they all work the same you only need to ride our Southern AZ deserts on an MTB/gravel bike or my road bikes when we are just off the beach in the summer to know sand/grit is a killer and has to be gotten off the inside of your chain.
#54
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Even if he meant there is no magic chain lube they all work the same you only need to ride our Southern AZ deserts on an MTB/gravel bike or my road bikes when we are just off the beach in the summer to know sand/grit is a killer and has to be gotten off the inside of your chain.
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I cannot believe this is a serious post. You don't mention lubrication, so every chain I have ever seen would be seriously rusted in a few months of riding, and the noise would be nearly unbearable. Your claim flies in the face of logic and evidence. Any other completely bogus beliefs you want to share?
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Likes For Rolla:
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#59
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Best explanation?
Maybe? My take is, knowing what causes elongation should make you Not use a "in between the rollers" chain gauge. Least if elongation is what you want to gauge. If overall wear is what you are after its fine, but just be aware roller wear adds a lot to apparent elongation
Maybe? My take is, knowing what causes elongation should make you Not use a "in between the rollers" chain gauge. Least if elongation is what you want to gauge. If overall wear is what you are after its fine, but just be aware roller wear adds a lot to apparent elongation
From the video it appears as if the chain is "extremely worn" (he says) measured with the park tool gauge, but the same chain measured with the blue ruler shows less than 1/16" elongation in 12". That is at worst 0.5%. That doesn't qualify as Extreme. Not by a long shot.
The CC-3.2 is a go/no-go gauge designed to accurately indicate when a chain reaches .5% and .75% "stretch," the points at which most chain manufacturers suggest replacement. For 9 and 10-speed chains, replace chain just as the gauge fits the 0.75% side fits flat into the chain. For 11 and 12-speed chain, replace as the 0.5% side fits.
Of course we can argue all day if roller wear should be included. I think it should, but implemented in the gauge to account for both true elongation and apparent elongation, to not cause you to prematurely discard the chain.
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#60
You can argue the semantics, but the results, according to the video, are either 0.75%+ measured with gauge between the rollers or less than 0.5% measured with the ruler. I get the same results measuring worn chains with a shop quality digital calliper. You can decide for yourself if that discrepancy is enough to care about. But, as noted before, it may account for some posting unusual low mileage. Especially if they believe the chain must be replaced when the 0.5% side of the gauge pops in. Or even worse, try to apply the campagnolo 132.6mm measurement to a shimano chain. At that point you are binning a perfectly fine chain. Maybe your budget can absorb that expense, but that is not the point.
Last edited by Racing Dan; 01-10-22 at 09:37 PM.
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If I have to guess, his chainring is made of steel and thick.
Very thin light weight aluminum big ring is probably the biggest culprit to accelerated drivetrain wear, together with thin aluminum cogs at the cassette. Because aluminum parts wear faster, the chain will also wear faster as a consequence even if the chain is made out of steel.
Very thin light weight aluminum big ring is probably the biggest culprit to accelerated drivetrain wear, together with thin aluminum cogs at the cassette. Because aluminum parts wear faster, the chain will also wear faster as a consequence even if the chain is made out of steel.
And, no, steel chains don’t wear faster if they are used on aluminum parts.
Those thin, very sharp aluminum big ring can also cut your leg. I have cut my legs a few times when I made contact with the big ring while the chain is on the small ring at the traffic stop. That's one reason I converted to 1x. Thin aluminum big ring is dangerous. Additional tetanus / infection hazard if you don't clean your drivetrain.
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#62
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You can argue the semantics, but the results, according to the video, are either 0.75%+ measured with gauge between the rollers or less than 0.5% measured with the ruler. I get the same results measuring worn chains with a shop quality digital calliper. You can decide for yourself if that discrepancy is enough to care about. But, as noted before, it may account for some posting unusual low mileage. Especially if they believe the chain must be replaced when the 0.5% side of the gauge pops in. Or even worse, try to apply the campagnolo 132.6mm measurement to a shimano chain. At that point you are binning a perfectly fine chain. Maybe your budget can absorb that expense, but that is not the point.
Edit: Upon further consideration, I need to point out that when using the 12” rule, the guidance is to replace when the chain reaches 1/16” stretch. That, as you have pointed out, is about 0.5%. So the chain would have been replaced with either the chain checker or with a ruler. The guidance on using a ruler isn’t that you go to 3/32” which would be the 0.7% chain stretch.
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Last edited by cyccommute; 01-11-22 at 02:56 PM.
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Aluminum big ring on mine wore quite fast, even on the sides it became quite sharp. I get cut when I'm stopped on intersection when my foot is down on the pavement and near the big ring. Never when in motion.
I have since switched to 1x drivetrain with thicker steel chainring. Solved the laceration problem entirely and the steel chainring doesn't seem to wear at all which is amazing. It used to be the small ring in my former 2x drivetrain. Have used it for thousands of miles. Steel and thicker makes a huge difference.
I have since switched to 1x drivetrain with thicker steel chainring. Solved the laceration problem entirely and the steel chainring doesn't seem to wear at all which is amazing. It used to be the small ring in my former 2x drivetrain. Have used it for thousands of miles. Steel and thicker makes a huge difference.
I have been using aluminum chainrings at least on the outer ring since 1977. The last bike I had that had steel ring for the outer ring was an early 70s Sear “10 speed”. The only ring I’ve replaced because of wear was a 44 tooth chainring on a mountain bike crank from the late 90s just recently. I’ve ridden bikes for nearly 200,000 miles since 1988 and that’s the only one I’ve ever worn out. I’m not saying that they can’t wear out but it takes a whole to of time to do so in my experience.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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