RiddleOfSteel

Thanks! I am hoping all of what I have done goes into a working bicycle by the time I put everything together!

I don't know when you started reading through this thread (and thus this journey), but the quick version of it is I came across the Paramount at a co-op I volunteer at, as a nearly complete bike in bad shape. The paint was bad, it had mostly new and mismatching and ugly and tired components on it, plus some original pieces that were just grubby. Nothing was assembled well--nearly everything was loose. The original fork was found in a nearby pile and had the top part of it broken off (the steerer, where a stem for the handlebars goes), meaning it would need the steerer replaced.

While replacing it requires time, skill, and money (if paying someone else to do it), the risky/tricky part is the original chrome right by the steerer (the fork "crown") would be subject to damaging levels of heat in the process, if one was not careful. And there was no guarantee even if one was careful. @gugie , a forum member down in Portland, offered his services and I took it down there. He did the repair and saved the chrome! He did a few other things as well, so the next step for me was to paint it.

Now, good paint work costs a good bit of money, and the result is beautiful and durable. I didn't want to pay that much (yet), so I decided to do it myself as I have some rattle can experience. And being that I didn't have the original components (brakes, gears, cranks, wheels, etc), I could do what I wanted, especially as the bike was nearly 'dead' when I got it. My canvas was blank, so to speak. So I am putting some old but really good Japanese parts on it in place of the assortment of Italian, American, and Belgian parts it came with. The satin black was chosen for a cool hot rod look, plus it looks great against the smooth shiny chrome. The bike will be a bit of a rebel in those ways, but it will still be beautiful.

I just got back from painting it over the weekend and am waiting for the paint to cure/harden (it is soft for a little bit when freshly painted) so I can put new decals and parts on it and have the paint be sturdier in case I accidentally bump it. I am just a little impatient.

RiddleOfSteel

I would bring the chrome Super Le Tour if I did. At the moment, heading down is up in the air. That is because of work, and more specifically, the desire to find new employment sooner rather than later. Where I work is a great place with great people, but after 6+ years, in this case, it is time to move on and do other design work. It's been a long couple of weeks, especially today, and I need to update my design portfolio (a huge undertaking), which has been something I've been putting off for a long time. After a day of designing, I don't want to do more in the evening, hence all this wonderful bike stuff which I wouldn't trade for anything. There are some openings (the proverbial carrot on a stick) at some places (well, one for sure) and that plus work = proper motivation. Of course, the motivation happens right when I have plans and I want to capitalize, hence why the trip is not a for sure. Anyway, sometimes you know it is just time to move on (amicably, preferably, as it would be in this case), as good as a place is and has been throughout the years. I am immensely thankful for it, but new opportunities await, and I need to act upon them.

Anyway, the weather will FINALLY be good again and I would take the SLT as I rode it today for work and loved every second of it. It is seriously the closest second place to my Peloton as a bike will get--just everything about it. And it's chrome. If I stay up here and do portfolio stuff, I will get out for an evening ride or two. With either place, no planned route at all other than get on and go (though I could always meet up!).

RiddleOfSteel

Ended up staying up here to capitalize on the motivation momentum and I've been on the portfolio grind since 1 PM, with small short breaks here and there. It was an absolutely gorgeous day today. Mid 50s (we'll take it), all sun, and no wind. I had the windows open and the blinds up in my living room/bike garage/office here in my apartment. Almost no music was listened to, just soaked up the rays indoors and the peacefulness of it all. Will be out for a night time ride shortly.

Now, I still did do a few small quick things to the Paramount. Tubes and whitewall tires mounted on their rims and they have 'trued' up nicely (and easily). They are the classic Kendas. I also globbed a lot of grease on the Campy BB threads (BSA threading for this Veloce cartridge unit) and hoped that the over-sprayed paint that was on the BB shell threads would not give me too much trouble. And well, they gave me no trouble at all! Threaded both cups in on the first hand spin--may as well have been a new BB shell. Fantastic!

I did a test waxing of the bottom of the BB to see how that would go and, uh, this paint is pretty tough stuff. It wasn't the most interested in being shinier, nor did any paint rub off onto the microfiber towel. I will take that! Been sun-curing it in the window during the weekdays when I'm at work and I think that has been helping. I think I will do the headset this weekend, but for now she is "on her feet" (wheels mounted) and looking really good. Can't wait to be done!

RiddleOfSteel

Oh look, it's DIRECT SUNLIGHT! Where the [many fun words] have you been?!?!?!? You are making my bike look even better!

Speaking of which, tubes and tires mounted to wheels, wheels mounted to bike. BB in. Still no headset. But you're getting the idea. It's looking goooooood. Also, Super Le Tour in the background. Love that bike.



It installed so easily, and looks at home in the shell, doesn't it?



The paint and rubber match quite well in their satin-ness. I like it.

RiddleOfSteel

Monday evening update for everyone.

We now have a Paramount with her "core" complete. Frame is good, bottom bracket installed, wheels complete including adjusted hubs, and the fidgety headset installed!

I think in all my excitement of getting a Paramount for such a great price had me not looking at the top nut of the headset--it's a little more marked up than preferred, but it shows well enough, is matching and original to the bike, and works just fine. The new steerer (now with no key slot) is 8-10mm longer than the original one, so I picked up and put on 10mm worth of shiny aluminum 1" spacers. Looks natural enough, plus, it allows me that much extra stem height if I so wish.

Seat post clamp duties are carried out by a Schwinn "S" molded bolt with matching nut (washer, too) that I believe was off my Super Le Tour as the Paramount lacked a seat post or saddle when it came into the shop. Whatever the case, it was in great shape and I wanted some more Schwinn propaganda on the bike. The bolt is equivalent to an M7 or something--seriously beefy. I approve.

The seat post is a high polish no name 27.2mm unit with 5-10mm more set back than any similar design of this style I've seen. I like that, because the B17 saddle doesn't give us much range to work with.

I will probably install the cranks, rear derailleur, and bar/stem/brake levers tonight as well. The paint is durable stuff, but I want to give it just a little bit longer to toughen up before putting the clamping components on it.

To the pictures!

Seat post clamp bolt. Proud S. The seat post's scar is the only major blemish visible above the frame:



10mm of spacers blend in pretty well:



Complete headtube, waiting for more:

gugie 

After you left I remembered that I forgot to file in a washer key slot! If you find that it's constantly loosening, next time you come down to Portland I can file one for you while you wait. You can do it yourself, but ti's better to do it with a proper tool to chase the threads afterwards.

RiddleOfSteel

Thank you for offering. I'll see how it goes. Things are snugged against each other pretty good as it is, but I will monitor, once I get it out on the road.

RiddleOfSteel

Um, yes. I am liking this a lot.

Sugino Super Mighty cranks are on, Superbe rear derailleur is on, SR stem (100mm) installed along with the Hsin Lung bar (39cm CTC, 41cm OA) and Superbe brake levers.

Saddle to brake lever measurements is right on and in the zone, and should make for a comfortable seating position. Height is good to me as well. I can go lower, but I have other bikes to play rocket ship with.

When I was tightening the non-drive side crankset--bike on the ground as is my policy--the bike fell toward me and the top tube clong'ed me on the bridge of my nose, leaving a nice oil mark on the paint. I was fine. Wiped off the oil with a rag, no chemicals required. Paint was fine, too. I keep trying to let this bike be a princess, and it will, but it also, I think, will just silently tell me to throw it over my shoulder and ride, letting what happens happen.

The RD clears the 28T 6-speed IRD freewheel (yet another mish-mash Masi purchase gift!), but the inner cage gets reeeal close to the spokes when I am adjusting the range. When I stand tune it, then I will find out much more. And when I ride it up some hills, then I will really find out things. Such as it goes.

Anyway, time for some money shots:

pastorbobnlnh 

Paramount at its best! Keep up the show and tell.

StoneFence

Anyway, time for some money shots:



[/QUOTE]

Lovely!😍

qcpmsame 

You need to align the "S" on the seat post bolt, those of us with *CDO are getting twitchy right now.

Wowww, it just gets better and better looking, your choices on the various components and colourway are stomp down nicely done sir.

Bill




* I kept the correct alphabetical order you will note please

merziac

This is coming along quite nicely.

corrado33

It's possible that he CAN'T align the S as sometimes those seatpost bolts were keyed in a certain place. However, I thought the same thing as you did when I saw it.

Regardless, beautiful bike. I wasn't sure about the paint when you first did it, but it definitely looks good now. The chrome looks wonderful and I can't wait to see it out there on the road! (And in direct sunlight!)

The steerer tube should be fine without the key for the spacers/washers. Those things never stay put anyway and the keys in the spacers just end up marring the threads.

ollo_ollo

Looking good! And wait as long as possible for the paint to cure. I rattle canned both my Super Sports and let them cure in my basement workshop (maintains 72-80*F during Winter with heat lost from boiler) for several weeks to harden. But each frame got a small chip needing touch-up before the 1st ride. Don

Narhay

Very nice. Could you swap a spacer to the drive side to avoid the spokes? Or maybe your hanger is slightly bent inwards.

qcpmsame 

Can't fault anything you said, but my reply was tongue cheek, completely. Apologies if I missed the mark once again.

Bill

RiddleOfSteel

Thank you! I can't stop staring at it either!

Thank you!

Thank you so much! And, I totally understand you on the OCD. When I went to slot the bolt with the S in, I too noticed it was 'off' and wondered why as any bike I've had that's been keyed/slotted for the binding bolt has the slot horizontally-oriented. I suppose the S is in the fastback (as in cars) position. More aero for all that air coming off the top tube...

Thank you!

Thank you! And your hunch was correct. Don't know why Schwinn did it that way, but oh well! Looks great and is strong, which I am quite happy with. As for the color, since I had decided on a Suntour Superbe build, which was outside the norm enough, not wanting to shell out tons for a professional paint job, I thought what better opportunity to give the hot rod satin black thing a try? No one has done it, and perhaps for a reason (heh!), and thankfully it's reversible if I botch the job or don't like it after a while (and know the bike won't fall in half at first ride). Sometimes my keyed washers stay, sometimes they don't, so if it ends up causing trouble for me, I'll deal with it then. For now though, the thing is adjusted and I'm happy to leave it so, haha. And yes, I can't wait for direct sunlight pics as they will be 1) better 2) mean she is back on the road, signifying victory!

Thank you! I will let patience triumph over impatience and wait until the weekend. The paint, advertised as durable, is giving me indication that it is--certainly much more so than the last bike I painted a few years back. Thin stuff, and marginally prepped. I did it muuuuch better this time around.

Thanks! I was thinking a spacer, but as you also pointed out (and I often forget) the derailleur hanger could be bent slightly inward, and I would agree. I know how to fix that!

*******

I have some brake caliper conical cap nuts coming in the post this week, and I am anxious to receive them. I will be using new adjustable-pivot Shimano Ultegra or Dura Ace level pads/holders (it's whatever Recycled Cycles has for like $10-15 a pair) as they fit the slot width in the caliper arms (just barely!). The caliper arms have additional recesses for the triangular tire guide pieces that shielded the brake blocks BITD, and I found four washers that are the correct depth and overall diameter to fit in there and give the brake pad hardware a full and proper surface to work with and secure to. Sure, it'd be nice using polished pads/holders, but after tasting the sweetness of adjustable angle pads, it's just so much easier and I don't have to bend the caliper arms for proper toe in.

Drillium Dude 

Wow, this is coming along nicely!!

You know, to continue the black/silver/white theme, you might think of dropping in some black paint around the "S" in the binder bolt - that would really make it pop.

DD

pastorbobnlnh 

I agree with DD. Highlighting can really bring out the details in the components. I've really only tried it on one bike. It was relatively easy and worth the time.



Here's some late to the table 2 cents worth of suggestion:

I realize this is a long shot and you have probably already secured the decals. However, special made silver-foil down tube "Schwinn Paramount" decals would be stunning (IMO)! I know Velocals can make a design in pretty much any material.

Jeff Wills

The "nut" should be on the right side of the bike. (Adjustments are usually made from the right side. Apologies to lefties.)

I'm pretty sure it's a moot point anyway. A Paramount should have a Campy binder bolt.

RiddleOfSteel

Doing some paint work on that bolt is certainly a possibility. It's not on the to-do list at the moment, but I will file that away for possible future work on it. Thank you for the suggestion!

The decals have been sourced and delivered. I did think about doing a metallic silver, and think it would certainly work, but chose white for the hotrod theme as well as the flexibility to work with other groupsets down the road, should I decide to change out the Superbe.

Decals will go on this weekend, as will several other parts--shifters, front derailleur, and hopefully brake calipers. As of this writing, I am still waiting on the replacement conical cap nuts for the brake calipers and only want to mount them when they are "ready." Also, my brand new, easily-installed rear inner tube has a slow leak. So I'll have to find that and patch it.

RiddleOfSteel

I understand. It's that way on pretty much all of my bikes. The reason for it being on the left is due to the "S" showing on the drive side of the bike. And since drive side viewpoints and photo angles are the best for showing off the bike in its fullest context and best light, with functionality being identical, the choice was an easy one for me.

True, a Campagnolo binder bolt could be used, but none was there when I got the bike. I'd probably get a Sugino anyway due to their availability at various LBS's around town. It would work with the (Japanese) theme as well (even if their are three Campy pieces on the bike already).

RiddleOfSteel

Yes, hoping that these are the last batch of indoor photo specials due to the multiple-records-broken rain here in the PNW. For now we all will have to abide my decade old point-and-shoot, crappy apartment lighting, and Photoshop ability to right that ship. It's passable, IMO.

Anyway...

After letting the paint dry, cure, and harden, it was time to move forward with some more moment-of-truth bits--namely decal application (aggressive adhesive 2 mil vinyl) and the clamp-on FD, DT shifters, and Campagnolo near-BB cable guide. I approached it very carefully, thankfully having had recent decal experience with my Super Le Tour 12.2 restoration.

I consulted online images of '74 and '73 Paramounts and found them a bit all over the map with regard to decal placement, so I aimed for the 'middle ground' and employed my sense of proportion via design training. DT shifters were placed in their late-'80s positions, unlike the much further down '70s position. As a tall guy, I'm not going to make that process any more uncomfortable than necessary. Plus, it's my bike and it already isn't adhering to several period-correct tenets.

Final bar wrap, a leather-like synthetic wrap (that has actually done rain bike duty this year's full crappy fall/winter/spring seasons and looks just fine). I really enjoy that the satin black picks up the satin and semi-gloss finishes of the bar wrap, saddle, tires, and brake lever hoods.

Also good news: I finally received my brake caliper conical cap nuts in the mail! Hoping to mount the brakes tonight.

Ok, on to the photos.

I'm not saying you should paint your bike satin black with contrasting chrome lugs, but.........



We know who she is again:



The result of carefully cutting the pre-'74-era Olympic banner decal to mimic 1974's look (or as close as possible):

RiddleOfSteel

The Superbe Train rolls along!



Shifty business....



Don't worry about the big ring to FD cage gap, it's the camera angle.



Hoping this guy is ready to run a 13-28 freewheel:



As always, thank you for your support, comments, and insights. Looking forward to a Friday or Saturday maiden voyage!!!

Kactus

I was prepared to hate the satin finish but I like that a LOT. The satin black makes the decals stand out and really pop. Great restoration.