Waxing Chain Just Trend or usefull?
#201
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The traditional option is to use several rounds of white spirits followed by a round of ethanol. This is effective, and the cost-of-entry for the raw material is very cheap, but there's a considerable drawback of ending up with a large amount of slightly-dirty solvent.
Products like Silca Chain Stripper - or Allpine Extra from Effetto Mariposa - are more expensive by volume of cleaner, but they're still quite inexpensive on a per-use basis. They're significantly nicer to deal with, both in terms of speed and waste. You don't need to use them, but they exist for a reason.
Products like Silca Chain Stripper - or Allpine Extra from Effetto Mariposa - are more expensive by volume of cleaner, but they're still quite inexpensive on a per-use basis. They're significantly nicer to deal with, both in terms of speed and waste. You don't need to use them, but they exist for a reason.
#202
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Yet, somehow, you feel like you have enough knowledge and experience to make this proclamation...
Meanwhile, people who do use wax while riding in the winter time have had personal experience that contradicts your statements.
Use what you want. No one is saying you should use wax.
Use what you want. No one is saying you should use wax.
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Yeah, any degreaser should work fine. Just get all the oil off, rinse thoroughly and dry. Don’t be tempted to skimp on the degreasing/cleaning though! It really does need a clean, dry starting point. Obviously the same goes for the cassette, chainrings and jockey wheels. You don’t want any oil contamination if you can help it.
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I used Finish Line Drivetrain Degreaser, followed by Simple Green, followed by a water rinse and air dry. I make no guarantees on how good a job it actually does, but things seemed pretty stripped down to me.
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Last edited by Eric F; 09-15-23 at 07:13 PM.
#205
I just wipe off as much of the packing grease as I can, and throw the oily rag into a growing pile of them in the garage next to where I store my gasoline and ether. Then I use mineral spirits to do the final soak, let it dry, and it is ready to wax. I just heat the wax up in a little crock pot. I don't add anything to the wax, and would advise against using powdered teflon (PTFE).
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I'm going to try my local shop in Wake Forest next. It's a Giant dealership, and I'm not holding my breath, but we'll see.
Last edited by smd4; 09-14-23 at 12:01 PM.
#208
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I've heard Canadian winters are pretty cold. Like sub freezing cold. Which is by far the easiest time bike maintenance wise especially if it's too cold for salt. You don't really need to relube even once in those conditions. There's no dust, no water, no nothing.
Sadly that's not what we get. We get slush all winter long. Cursed coast and southern warmth!
#209
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On the initial degreasing, I found that mineral spirits work pretty well. I use a mason jar and let the chain soak in it, then pull it out and give it a good scrub. After that, a final rinse with acetone.
I'm sure the Silca degreaser products work well too - but buying the other stuff from the hardware store is pretty easy.
Remember that you're only doing this once. There's no need to use solvents like this once you've done the initial stripping/cleaning.
I'm sure the Silca degreaser products work well too - but buying the other stuff from the hardware store is pretty easy.
Remember that you're only doing this once. There's no need to use solvents like this once you've done the initial stripping/cleaning.
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Look, it's your bike. Abuse it if you want. No skin off my back. But your bike would run more efficiently and last longer if you spent more than 5 mintes every 4300 miles cleaning the drivetrain. I'm sure there are people who never change the air filters in their HVAC or change the oil in their cars, too.
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Last edited by bbbean; 09-15-23 at 09:46 AM.
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There is a better answer than this, but take a block of wax and a cup of oil at room temperature. Sprinkle sand on them, then blow it off. Which one retained more sand?
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Not very helpful, since I was asking about "liquid" wax. I imagine if I sprinkled sand on a chain immediately after applying liquid wax, I'd get the same result. But thanks anyway. I'm going to try it.
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"Liquid wax" is solid wax dissolved in a solvent. The solvent evaporates and the wax dries on the chain. Then you have the "block of wax" versus the "cup of oil" mentioned above.
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That's not how liquid wax works. It hardens on the chain. You apply liquid wax at least a few hours before you ride. It is completely dry and hard before use.
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#215
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My point is that when first applied, in its liquid form, when it's wet, before the solvent evaporates, before it's dry... (See where I'm going here?) It presumably can pick up dirt, just like oil.
#216
The idea is to let it dry before riding and then it won’t pick up any dirt.
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#218
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Silca says 12-24hrs of dry time is needed for their "Super Secret" drip wax.
Hot wax is easier in this regard - needing only 10-15 minutes to be dry and ready-to-ride. Hot wax is also simpler to apply, in that you just dunk the whole chain in the pot, then pull it out and let it dry. With drip wax you have to apply to each roller on the chain.
Hot wax is easier in this regard - needing only 10-15 minutes to be dry and ready-to-ride. Hot wax is also simpler to apply, in that you just dunk the whole chain in the pot, then pull it out and let it dry. With drip wax you have to apply to each roller on the chain.
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Hot wax is great, but I like having some drip-wax on hand for spot application.
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Silca says 12-24hrs of dry time is needed for their "Super Secret" drip wax.
Hot wax is easier in this regard - needing only 10-15 minutes to be dry and ready-to-ride. Hot wax is also simpler to apply, in that you just dunk the whole chain in the pot, then pull it out and let it dry. With drip wax you have to apply to each roller on the chain.
Hot wax is easier in this regard - needing only 10-15 minutes to be dry and ready-to-ride. Hot wax is also simpler to apply, in that you just dunk the whole chain in the pot, then pull it out and let it dry. With drip wax you have to apply to each roller on the chain.
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That's absolutely ridiculous to have to wait for so long before being able to take a bike out for a ride...and the faster solution seems to involve stoves, pots and pans, crockpots and double boilers and the wax doesn't even last that long to justify going through such a long process ....No thanks, I'll stick with my oil based lubes.
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Actually, if you really care about lubing your chain, and you use an oil-based lube ... it is recommended that one leave the chain alone for several hours for the oil to seep into all the spaces between parts.
Sorry you didn't know that.
Sorry you didn't know that.
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Complete BS....I never followed such a thing and many times over the years I would lube the chain and 2 minutes later be on my bike riding. Spinning the cranks gets the oil where it should be.